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Some will explain that early tractors were not designed for the attachment of ROPS. They have indicated that the castings were not intended to support the shock load, and stress of a roll over. I agree they were never designed that way. With that said there is no reason that a far better than nothing system could be made. Please believe these are only ideas, and not plans. I make no representation that the following is adequate. it is just off the cuff thinking. I would use 2"X4" thick walled rectangular tubing.
I would attach it to a 3/4" plate drilled for the four fender mount bolts on the upper axle and use grade 8 bolts in those holes (sandwitching it between the fenders and axle.
I would go up from those plates on the inside touching the fenders till I was high enough for head clearance and getting on and off.
I would go across under the seat with a lower cross member, then make a square by closing the top.
All these would need a 3/8 thick by 8"X8" gusset to triangulate the corners. Gussets would be on the sides of the tubing, not in the center where they might press in on flat surfaces. I would build straight forward on top to even with the side of the torque tube bolting area on both sides, then down to at least two of the bolt holes there. A cross piece ( completing the square of the roof) would go in, allong with the gussets as above. Problems would include seat mounting, clearance for PTO lever, and other access issues. I, again I state these are concepts only. What you do must not compromise your ability to get off fast, nor be more of a scissors threatr than nothing. Remember that existing designs are rolled over and tested prior to being accepted for production. Yours will only have the one chance to save your caboose. Look long and hard at ROPS on other tractors that size, and be stronger than you think is needed. Welds must be professional grade, and the welder may have serious doubts about accepting the job. JimN
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