1953 Farmall Super A - Hydralic Problem

Go back start the tractor, with with hydraulic levers in mid position. With tractor idling, slowly move the lever (one lever at a time) completely forward, listen for the tractor to start laboring. If that doesn't happen try the rear position of same lever. Then do the same with the other lever.

What you are trying to determine here is whether rock shaft completes it's stroke as the lever hit it's stop. You will here it start to labor engine if rock shaft reaches end of stroke and you still have lever travel left. You can adjust linkage to each lever to correct this.

Your pto is probably rusted in the shift mechanism, if tractor has been parked for awhile. Usually these will free up with use as oil gets circulated through transmission.

Charlie gave you the money fix, I on the otherhand am a Scotsman. He may well be right, but I always try the cheap fix first. It costs very little money to listen and adjust accordingly. Good luck, and come back if you have queations.

You are probably correct on the need for a kit. I have seen these loose hydraulic function, for lack of oil, but that will occur long before it gets hot and will not cause the unit to leak anywhere. I had a neighbor call one day, his pump was hot, no hydraulic function and the cause, the cylinder type screen on the side of the touch control unit was plugged. He did get by cleaning up the screen that day but told me later he had to replace the pump shortly after.

These tractors with touch control and indeed all the Farmalls with live hydraulics, before the days of using transmission as resovoir just never had enough resovoir to do the job intended in my opinion. First problem is if they developed an unnoticed internal leak during the work day they could quite easily pump the system dry. Secondly because system was so small any dirt in there was kept stired up by turbulance. And finally, some of the hydraulic systems I used later in my farming days, proved in my mind the very best way to keep a hydraulic system heat down, was lots of resovoir. I know I'm talking about much larger systems, but IH just were a bit too stingy on hydraulic resovoir. I guess the McCormick's were Scotsmen as well.

By the way, I am a Scotsman too. Malcolm is AKA MacCallum, (Derived from follower to Saint Columba of Scotland). I belong to the MacCallum/Malcolm Society.

Thanks again, James Malcolm

Here is what I would do next, and all of this has to be done to install the kit anyhow. Drain the system of all oil that will come out drain at the base of touch control. Then remove the cylinder type screen. If it is plugged or yes even plugged so badly it has collapsed, I would clean it up, maybe even get a new screen. If that screen is plugged, after cleaning or replacing, I would fill touch control with new hy-tran, just to see if that makes any difference in hydraulic performance.

However if that screen is clear and not plugged, you may as well order up the kit. No point in even filling it back up with oil. I don't think low hydraulic oil is cause of your problem, as that wouldn't cause leaks at pipes coming from pump. Sounds more like your trying to pump oil through a blocked passage.

James

Hugh and CNKS have both helped me in the recent past. Every day with these old Farmall's is a new adventure and a learning experience. I have had green tractors for the last 20+ years and actually never had to work on them. But, in the last 2 months I have bought 3 tired Farmalls and each one has something needing attention.

I just got finished rebuilding the hydraulic unit on my '53 SA and was a real bassard for me. Mainly because I have a bad back and the thing must weigh 150 pounds. Hoss it around a few times and you'll invent new cuss words real quick..I did! Mine was leaking around the control valves and so, I bit the bullet and bought the kit...$97 and change off ebay. When you finally get the unit off the tractor, I suggest you set it in a large container..I used a plastic baby bathtub...because when the head comes off, more oil will pour out. I had nothing (manual) to tell me anything...you get inventive when you have too. The control valves have to be yanked free from their bores as the rubber seals hold them firmly in place. I used pliers...didn't seem to damage any surfaces by doing so. I suggest you pull out one valve, replace the O ring(s) and then put it back in it's respective bore before moving on to the next one. This way, you don't forget where it went or how. The pistons can be tapped free from their bores from the rod end..I used a rubber mallet. The instructions in the kit are next to useless. There will be two head gaskets...use the thicker one. There will be O rings left over..the instructions tell you so. They put in enough because there are at least 2 versions of the hydraulic unit..one used more O rings than the other. After you get it all back together, try to get somebody to help you heft it back on the tractor..save those gonads! And for what it's worth.....I used ATF in mine, works like a charm.