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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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brake bands on H

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lekander883

04-10-2006 19:50:13




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I am going to take the cover off the right side brake. I know I have to remove the brake lever and a few bolts to take it off. The left side has the pto shift so I am leary to remove any of it. So just hoping to get one working. Any way when I pull the cover off other than seeing fluid leaking from it will there be any suprises. Springs, bolts, etc. And can I put a new band on even if a seal is leaking. Also when buying a band are they (left and right) the same. All help is appreciated.

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chadd

04-11-2006 05:07:50




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 Re: brake bands on H in reply to lekander883, 04-10-2006 19:50:13  
Do you mean that you have a M&W hand clutch on it that will stop the PTO? A normal H would not have a pto shift near the left brake housing. It would be located near the back of the seat. Is the left brake cover a completely different shape (more of a bulge out and made of cast instead of sheet metal)than the right? Just thought that maybe you weren't getting the right answers. I've never worked on one myself. Good luck.

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P Backus

04-11-2006 04:15:56




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 Re: brake bands on H in reply to lekander883, 04-10-2006 19:50:13  
The only thing I can add to Wayne"s excellent description is to get the brake bands from CaseIH, since the aftermarket ones are a bit too long and you will have the pedal adjusted all the way in to get any braking at all.
On mine, I had trouble getting the woodruff key out. Just be patient and cut it out if you have to. New woodruff keys are cheap.
Paul



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Wayne Swenson

04-10-2006 20:20:51




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 Re: brake bands on H in reply to lekander883, 04-10-2006 19:50:13  
Left & right are identical. No springs, etc. inside to surprise you. The left side is no different than the right in removal. The PTO is in the rear of the tractor; were you thinking of the clutch pedal?
Please replace any leaking seal; the new brake band (& about $40) will be ruined very soon if you don"t.
It is not easy to remove the old seal but patience will help. Do not try to remove the cast iron seal retainer; it will break unless gears are removed first.
Be sure to get all the old seal removed; it is about 3/4" thick & has an outer liner holding everything together.
Replace with 2 (two) new style seals and put some chassis grease in between them for long term lubrication protection.
Use steel wool to clean the brake drum sealing surface making sure all scratches are removed before installing the drum on the bull pinion shaft.
Lube the brake shoe pivot bushing in the transmission housing and in the brake cover before you slide the new linings in place.
Place a small amount of grease in the hole where the brake pivot goes into the transmission housing and be sure the brake pivot works freely in the cover. Oil the area well and let the excess drip off before installing the new bands.
After installing the band & getting the pedal free-play to about 1", apply the brake firmly, lock it in place and adjust the setscrew on the bottom side of the cover. (helps to loosen any adjustable parts BEFORE re-assembly) Loosen the jam nut, turn the set screw in until it touches the brake band, back out 1/2 turn & lock the jam nut. This helps prevent the brake from dragging, premature wear, and overheating.
Repeat for the other side and adjust the pedals for equal braking effort so when the pedals are locked together the tractor stops without pulling to one side.

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