Super M disc brakes

- The 3 balls and the ramps in the actuating plates the balls run in. All must clean (and the balls be shiny) and rust free.

- Machined surfaces of the reaction lugs on the outer edge of the actuating plate assembly and the mating lug surfaces on the inside the brake cover.

- Brake shaft splines. If there’s any burrs, etc on the splines file them smooth.

- If the rotating disk friction material shows signs of oil/grease contamination, toss ‘em and buy new ones.

- If the friction surfaces on the actuating disk, the inside of the cover and against the tranny have rust, scale, etc. use sandpaper to clean them down to bare metal. Or have a machinist take a light cut on each piece – but just down to bare metal.

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When reassembling the brakes use a LIGHT film of Nevr Seez or similar on the splines and the actuating disk lugs. A bit of powdered graphite or moly powder is good in the ball ramps. And a drop of oil on each pivot point on the actuating assembly. However keep all lubrication to a minimum – you don’t want excess lube getting onto the friction surfaces!

This is a common problem, and I think it mostly has to do with wear in the balls and in the ramps. Dad's Super M has been like this forever; we're just glad the brakes work to slow the tractor down, and pull the pedal back with a heel or toe to release them.

I've heard a lot about having the disks relined with clutch liner or kevlar, and how that makes the brakes work better, but keeps them from being "grabby" and locking up.