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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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CALLIN ALL FARMALL H EXPERTS

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1945farmallH

02-13-2006 06:07:08




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Hello,

I have two faramll H's. The one I am having trouble with is a 1945. The problem I am having is low power, fouling spark plugs. This tractor must have been a distiled modle. it has the manifold with the flapper, and hole for other gas tank. When pulling a load up a hill in 4 or going up slight incline in 5 it will blow black smoke AT FULL THROTTLE. I have leaned the carberator out to the point that I need choke at Idle-half throttle to keep it running. It has a loder on it so it stays a half throttle most of the time. After 5-6 hours of work I have to pull the spark plugs out and clean them up (black carbon - too rich)

What I don't understand is how can I be lean at Idle Decent at half throttle and runnign rich at full throttle. It acts like it is not the right carb for it. Is the distilled carb differn't.

The other H I have sounds differnt and is a lot stronger... SOMTHING IS NOT RIHGT WITH THIS 1945 I HAVE...

Give me some suggestions and I will keep you posted

Thanks

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farmallhal

02-13-2006 11:35:23




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 Re: CALLIN ALL FARMALL H EXPERTS in reply to 1945farmallH, 02-13-2006 06:07:08  
You have some good ideas from the earlier responses so I won't go there. I had a similar problem with my Super C when I first purchased it last year. The Super C's came originally with air cleaners from two different suppliers, United Specialities and Donaldson. My SC had a combination made up with pieces from both suppliers plus some missing parts. I went through your same symptoms running far too rich, black smoke, low power and fouled plugs. Problem solved when I put on a different complete air cleaner assembly with all the correct parts. I found the engine was sucking oil from the air cleaner cup through the carb making for a very rich mixture. I would think the problem would increase as engine vaccum was increased with full throttle. It is quite easy to check so you might want to take a look at your air cleaner oil cup and see if the oil level is too high and contains the correct weight oil. I was going through all the same things you are doing now before I got lucky and found the problem. Hope this helps, Hal.

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Don L C

02-13-2006 11:57:00




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 Re: CALLIN ALL FARMALL H EXPERTS in reply to farmallhal, 02-13-2006 11:35:23  
Be sure the air intahk tube is free of thash....now make sure oil bath has 30w oil in it..



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Dellbertt

02-13-2006 09:39:39




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 Re: CALLIN ALL FARMALL H EXPERTS in reply to 1945farmallH, 02-13-2006 06:07:08  
I agree with the rest.
I would make sure the tank is clean, the timing and plugs are good and then switch carbs from the good one to see where you are.

As long as it idles good, I lean toward bad plugs or wires.



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Wayne Swenson

02-13-2006 08:43:45




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 Re: CALLIN ALL FARMALL H EXPERTS in reply to 1945farmallH, 02-13-2006 06:07:08  
First, make sure the timing is set correctly. Late timing (too small of a gap or incorrect setting) will act like too rich carburetor problems.
Timing should be set so the points open (set the gap first, .016" for battery ignition) when the timing pointer is between the double marks on the pulley; use the crank or turn the fan by hand (switch off) to locate the marks. With the switch off; use an ohmmeter or self powered test light to verify the point opening instant. This can be done with either #1 or #4 at TDC. Loosen the 2 distributor hold-down cap screws and rotate the body of the distributor in the direction of normal rotor travel until the points are closed (test light is on, ohmmeter reads very low ohms). Now rotate the distributor body backwards until the points JUST open; lock the cap screws and you are good to go. It is CRITICAL for the points have to be CLEAN and ADJUSTED first. If you have a 12 volt test light, turn on the switch after locating TDC and follow the same proceedure. The light is on with points closed and off when the points open.
Needless to say, points, rotor, cap, & wires have to be in decent shape.

Now start the engine & warm it up in NEUTRAL and BRAKES LOCKED; run at WOT (wide open throttle) and turn the high-speed adjusting screw in & out to find the "sweet spot" where the engine runs its fastest & smoothest. Turn this high-speed screw out an extra 1/2--3/4 turn for power. Idle the engine down & set the idle speed. Now turn the idle mixture screw in to richen, out to lean so the idle is smoothest.(this is an AIR adjusting screw so works opposite of the main fuel screw on the bottom of the carb) Re-adjust the idle speed. Perform the carb adjusting procedure another time to be sure all mixtures are correct.
Don"t forget that in the winter your air cleaner may cause richness due to cold oil in the cup or even ice blocking the air passage.

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Lucien Cyr

02-13-2006 07:49:57




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 Re: CALLIN ALL FARMALL H EXPERTS in reply to 1945farmallH, 02-13-2006 06:07:08  
When I purchase my 1948 Cub last summer, I had pretty much the same problem. I had my brother (a mecanic) have a look at it, and as he saw it told me I had the wrong carburator on it. Put a almost new carburator bougth on Ebay and had no problem with it since.



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Janicholson

02-13-2006 06:28:20




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 Re: CALLIN ALL FARMALL H EXPERTS in reply to 1945farmallH, 02-13-2006 06:07:08  
Swap carbs from one to the other.
If the problem follows the carb, I would be inclined to be focusing on the high speed systems, float level, and condition of the adjusting needle (someone may have tightened it in like a set screw)

Good luck,
JimN



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