Live Hydraulics on M

If your M is a 1949 or older, then you've got two options for distributor-drive hydraulics:

1. Change out the front cover and timing gears, then add a factory live pump. Expensive to the max.
2. Find an M&W live hydraulic add-on. This will bolt in just like the factory pump, except it's compatible with the older front cover and timing gears. Problem with this one is, it's RARE, almost impossible to find, and really expensive to buy when you do run across one.

Final option is to add a belt-drive pump off the crankshaft. HOWEVER, unless you've got the time, tools, skills, and materials, it looks like a total cob-job, the belt slips, and it doesn't work very well. The belt-drive setup shown in this thread was done by a skilled fabricator and machinist. He turned the pulleys out of raw steel. He fabricated up the bracket. He planned the system properly, and I hear that it works well.

An M would be easier since there is more room between the crankshaft and front bolster casting.

I put live hydraulics and power steering on my H. It landed just on the far side of a grand using used parts.

Allan

If you have a loader on the tractor with a supply tank, plumb it directly into the pump and keep the belly pump as a back up. If you don’t have a loader on it, take the belly pump out, get a tank made (or build it yourself) and put it where the belly pump was. On this tank you can use ¾ inch fittings for the input line to the pump. You can plumb the return as you see fit. This setup gives you maximum reservoir capacity and maximum supply to the pump. (You can gut the belly pump and use it for a reservoir but you will be limited to the suction side by the size of the drain hole in the belly pump.)

Mount your self a spool valve somewhere and you are ready to go.

I wish I could give you a cost amount, but all I can say is it won't be cheap.