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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum

Rear end piece broke

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Robertw

01-17-2006 18:14:03

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I'am going tomorrow to look at a farmall h that has a piece roughly 3" by 4" broke out of the bottom below the bull gear which i think was caused by one of the balls on the inside bearing of the axle my question is can that be welded and what for a job is it to replace that bearing and if the bull gear is broke is that hard to replace and at what price the guy said he was pushing snow with it when it broke he said it runs good this is what he told me when i called him don't know any thing else tonight as for looks or tires think it can be bought for $400 thanks for any help out there Robert from michigan

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Oldawg

01-18-2006 20:18:21

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Re: Rear end piece broke in reply to Robertw, 01-17-2006 18:14:03

An old welder told me once that the best way to weld cast iron is to: 1) Grind a v-groove in the crack, 2) Use Nickel rod (stick welder), 3) Weld a short length at a time (1/2" or so), and 4) Peen it with a small ball-peen hammer while it cools, 5) Continue this way until done.
The peening keeps the weld from shrinking and cracking again as it cools. This has worked well for me on several repair jobs.

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Tallperson

01-18-2006 09:55:33

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Re: Rear end piece broke in reply to Robertw, 01-17-2006 18:14:03

Robertw it certainly can be welded back in by any compitent welder. I have repaired many castiron, caststeel, and aluminum housings... Good luck.. and good driving Tallperosn

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wsmith

01-18-2006 08:18:19

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Re: Rear end piece broke in reply to Robertw, 01-17-2006 18:14:03

bought a super m last summer at a farm sale, puttered around awhile and parked it in the barn, went out a couple weeks ago and uh-oh a big puddle of oil under the rear end. found an "L" shaped crack in the cast housing. drained the fluid along with a couple gallons of water. drilled small holes at both ends of the "L" buffed it up real well with a wire brush on the angle grinder. JBWeld at the local walmart is about $3.00 let is set a couple days, smoothed it back out with the wire brush applied "fire red" @$.97 a can (also wal-mart) filled it up with 80w-90 13 gallons @ $4.59 a gallon from O'reilly, been feeding bales with this tractor since then. no cab, but I LOVE this tractor. They just don't make em like this anymore.

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Robertw

01-18-2006 07:32:42

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Re: Rear end piece broke in reply to Robertw, 01-17-2006 18:14:03

Thanks guys Michael i was wondering how the water gets in there Robert

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john d

01-17-2006 19:28:13

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Re: Rear end piece broke in reply to Robertw, 01-17-2006 18:14:03

Chances are good that the bull gear is okay. The casting usually breaks before that gear sees much damage. Axle bearing replacement isn't too bad; it can be done through the pto opening without removing the platform. There are several posts in the archives on how to do it. Make sure you block the tractor so it CANNOT MOVE while you're working on it.

I have no experience with welding the bottom of that case, but I know from what others have said that it can be done.

Back in the early 50s, a neighbor of ours had an M that lost a bearing and broke out a triangular piece of the casting, much as you describe. It was taken to the local IH dealership, and the mechanic determined that the piece would fit back in the hole almost perfectly. He put the piece in place, and carefully drilled a small hole at each corner of the triangle - right on the crack. He then tapped some threads in to each hole - about 1/4" or so diameter. Then he cleaned the part and the edges of the hole very well, and painted them. Finally, he smeared some Permatex non-hardening gasket sealer on the edges, put the piece in place, and threaded three short bolts into the holes. That M went back to the farm for another 10-15 years and never leaked.

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Michael Soldan

01-17-2006 18:28:12

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Re: Rear end piece broke in reply to Robertw, 01-17-2006 18:14:03

Robert, I have an H that has been welded, and yes it was likely a ball bearing going through the gear, or did it have water in the rear end and it froze and cracked out? Anyway my local machine shop said he could do it, I drove it the 12 miles, drained it and he welded it up with special cast rods, then we filled the rear back up and I drove it home. He ground off the weld and it looks good, when I paint the tractor I will use some metallic(Bondo Type)filler and then sand and paint. It has not leaked or caused any problem, I think mine broke out because the tractor had been full of water when I bought it and I just parked the tractor that fall. I went to move it one day in the winter and it wouldn't budge, frozen solid , then it leaked after that so I drained the water and put new oil in the rear, drove it to the machine shop and got it welded. A magnet dragged around in the rear will yield any loose bearing balls if there is one..may not be...good luck ...Mike in Exeter Ontario

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