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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall 340

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wayne L

01-01-2006 06:28:19




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A quick update on my 340. I redid the heads and got some help from you folk regarding it not starting. Thanks for the advise but I still have no go. I set the valve guides to .018 intake and .022 exhaust which was per a dealer. I also gave each cylinder a squirt of oil to help with suction and now It does not fire at all. I check the distributor and when cylinder #1 is at TDC on the compresson stroke the rotor it at #1. I am still puzzled why the plugs are dry and not drawing gas. I took off the carb and cleaned and replaced the needle/seat and jets. Everything seems to be working?. When I choke it there is gas running out the bottom of the carb and the choke is opening and closing when I choke it. Back to the distributor. I pulled of the rotor and checked the points. I have spark when I manually opened and closed the points. Not alot but it is sparking?. Can anyone provide more help?.
Thanks
Wayne

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potosi

01-01-2006 17:35:14




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to wayne L, 01-01-2006 06:28:19  
I recently did a valve job on my 340.In the process I replaced the points and condenser.I had problem starting.Turned out to be the points.The contact on the bracket that is held with a screw was loose.I replaced and it startes every time now.



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BIG JOHN

01-01-2006 16:39:26




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to wayne L, 01-01-2006 06:28:19  
When all else fails get a neighbor and have him pull you to get it started. Don't ask me why but for some reason you just can't get them started after a tear down the first time without some help, like pulling it to turn it over faster than the battery will.

GOOD LUCK



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billde

01-01-2006 11:44:43




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to wayne L, 01-01-2006 06:28:19  
If you are not getting fuel to the cylinders it may be that your primary cicuit is plugged in the carb.



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Wayne L

01-01-2006 16:40:30




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to billde, 01-01-2006 11:44:43  
Thanks for all the help. 1st off there is plenty of suction from the throat of the carb as I put my palm against it and it sucked it tight. 2nd not sure what the primary circuit is in the Carb, I did clean it all out and replaced the needle/seat and jets. 3rd, Not alot of spark coming from the plugs, I can barely see it. This leads me to believe the condenser is bad. I just replaced the points/condesor this fall. I will pick up a new one tomorrow if the dealer is open. Question if the resistor btwn the 12v and coil goes bad will this burn out the condesors?. Or if it goes bad do you have no spark at the coil?. I have good spark at the coil as I mentioned before. Back to the carb, when it is choked gas runs out of the throat. Thanks
Wayne
Wayne

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Pete7

01-01-2006 11:36:41




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to wayne L, 01-01-2006 06:28:19  
Hi Wayne...I don't have much to add, but I would make sure the plugs themselves are actually "sparking". Plugs in these old tractors seem to get dirty realy easy and fast. I if did have a spark (at the spark plug) then I would squirt a little gas into a cylinder and see if that doesn't get it to fire for a second or two. Pete



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MFEMF

01-01-2006 07:05:32




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to wayne L, 01-01-2006 06:28:19  
As Hal has mentioned make sure the #1 is coming up on compression. Take the plug out and hold finger over plug hole, have someone hand crank. Be sure to disconnect the coil wire. Have you checked your manifold gasket? Not sure if you rebuilt or not, but I always have my manifold trued up prior to reinstalling. I would support Hal in the distributor check as well. Should be very bright blue spark. May also want to replace your condensor if you haven't. Sounds like you may have a couple of issues going on. Good luck and keep us posted.

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El Toro

01-01-2006 06:56:18




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to wayne L, 01-01-2006 06:28:19  
You need to pull the coil wire from the distr. cap
and hold it within 1/4" of a good ground. Then have someone to attempt an engine start while you hold that coil wire. You may want to use a pair of insulated pliers. This should be a very hot spark. Is this a 12 volt ignition system with
a ballast resistor between the ignition switch and the coil?

For the fuel problem I would hold a hand over the carburetor throat and see if there's any suction.
You need a good manifold vacuum to pull that atomized fuel into the engine. Was the engine rebuilt? A good fit with the rings and cylinders
is what creates this vacuum. When you had No1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke were both valves closed? Hal

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wayne l

01-01-2006 07:58:06




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to El Toro, 01-01-2006 06:56:18  
Hal, Good spark from the coil. I held 1/2" away and still had a nice spark. There is a little play in the rotor in that I can move it back and forth but it started okay before the head was done. The rotor turns when I crank it over. I have spark when I turn over when the points open and close but it not a strong spark. I reset the points to .020. Thanks
Wayne



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El Toro

01-01-2006 08:45:08




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to wayne l, 01-01-2006 07:58:06  
The spark sounds ok. I would now check for a good spark at the sparkplugs. Hold the plugwire away from the plug and see if it's hot here while cranking. Hal



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Wayne L

01-01-2006 07:35:23




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to El Toro, 01-01-2006 06:56:18  
Hal, Just the upper was redone. Had new seats put in and a couple of valves needed replacement. Manifold is fine, replaced the gaskets, etc. I converted it to a 12 volt system a few years back and it has run fine. There is a resistor between the ign and coil. Both valves are closed on #1 TDC since this is where I had to set the valve clearance. So then both valves would be closed correct?. I set the valve clearance #1 cylinder 1st the #3, etc. per the firing order as the book says 1-3-4-2. I will check the spark from the coil.
Thanks
Wayne

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El Toro

01-01-2006 08:09:42




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to Wayne L, 01-01-2006 07:35:23  
You need to check for battery voltage at the coil
with the ignition switch on. I mentioned the valves to make sure the timing gear wasn't off. I think that's ok.

You should run a compression check on the engine and see what that is. Could be the cause of the fuel not being pulled into the engine. Rings may
be worn or stuck in the ring lans. I would pour
some oil into each cylinder and let it soak overnight. The compression readings should be within about 10% of each other. Hal

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Wayne L

01-01-2006 08:24:19




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to El Toro, 01-01-2006 08:09:42  
Hal,
Regular motor oil or a penetration type. If the rings were stuck wouldn't it burn oil then?. I have a compression guage and will check the compression. Thanks
Wayne



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El Toro

01-01-2006 08:40:51




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 Re: Farmall 340 in reply to Wayne L, 01-01-2006 08:24:19  
If it was mine I would use transmission fluid. You can use engine oil. Once you do this I wouldn't install the plugs or just put them in
loose, then remove them and crank over the engine
several revolutions. Then see if the engine will start. I would do the compression check first.
Hal



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