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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Lookin fior Chad

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LumbrJakMan

12-23-2005 15:29:55




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Chad , I got my HEI Recurve kit , and there are 3 sets of little springs in it . Which Springs do I wanna use in the H Distributor , going in my Super M ?

Thanks Chuck




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ChadS

12-24-2005 12:14:46




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 Re: Lookin fior Chad in reply to LumbrJakMan, 12-23-2005 15:29:55  
For 10%rpm and less, use the second set, for engines 10% and over on rpm use the lightest spring. Chad



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Hayfarmer

12-24-2005 10:26:08




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 Re: Lookin fior Chad in reply to LumbrJakMan, 12-23-2005 15:29:55  
On my SMTA distributor Chad recommended the lightest of the springs in the chevy recurve kit. I put them in and had to stretch them a bit to get them in there. Seems to work well under load.



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the tractor vet

12-23-2005 18:32:32




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 Re: Lookin fior Chad in reply to LumbrJakMan, 12-23-2005 15:29:55  
It would be best to put the dist. on a dist machine and get the advance curve set correctly . As just throwing in what ever springs will change it to who know what it could help ya or hurt ya.



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LumbrJakMan

12-24-2005 05:53:57




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 Re: Lookin fior Chad in reply to the tractor vet, 12-23-2005 18:32:32  
OK Tractor Vet .... How much is a Distributor Machine gonna co$t me ? Just Kidding .... I am obviously new at the Mechanics of this . Can ya give me a Little More info ?

Thanks Chuck



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the tractor vet

12-24-2005 07:12:29




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 Re: Lookin fior Chad in reply to LumbrJakMan, 12-24-2005 05:53:57  
Well finding one of them out critters is a problem as a lot of them have gone into the dumpsters i have one but it is not the machine that i wanted to get but it works you may find some old buzzard that rebuilds Alt. and gen and startes and dist that may have one and remembers how to use it and the books with the info as to what RPM and what degrees at that RPM . What it does is it spins the dist. and you can adjust the RPM's from and ideal to full speed of the dist that it was designed to turn and as it is running there is a strob light that will flash on a degree wheel at each point if it is a 4 cyl. it will make a flash at 4 points on the degree wheel when each plug is firen at and tell you the degrees at the given RPM. This way you can see what spring is doing what and you can change springs to make it advance quicker or slower and to limit the total advance or lighten up the fly weights or add weight or open up the advance limiter or what ever . It is getting to be a lost art ever since the electroinic age cam in for the auto indusrtry , but what a car will do good on is not what a working engine will do good on . Everything that i knew about drag racing and how to make a Ford or Mopar run at the track does not work for farming with a gas tractor and does not work for a pulling tractor. and took me a long time to get that thru my pea brain .

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ChadS

12-24-2005 12:11:55




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 Re: Lookin fior Chad in reply to the tractor vet, 12-24-2005 07:12:29  
Ive got one of those distributor testers,, Its made by SUN. Some of the racing tech kinda works, but kinda dont, depends on what your doing with the engine, work, or play,,,,, Your exactly correct about lost arts,,, From what we have all learned over the years has told us the differences in what certain designs were intended for use, what works, and what dont,,, Really, in racing, and pulling, there is 2 common goals, to get the rpm up as quickly as possible, in the cars,, its getting the rpm peak back up to the shift points after you shift gears. Pullers, they need to get the rpms up and hold it there steady, preferably, under a load, on autos, the rpms are increasing all the time,,, where on tractors set up for pulling the rpms will be the opposite, and be a progressive drop in rpm as the load gets heavier requiring more power and torque from the engine. On the advance weights,, in the tractors,, usually on farm tractors used for farming, as long as it is in good working mechanical order, modifications are not that important. On pullers, you have factors that differ from how the engine would operate in the field, it comes down to engine control responce time on pulling tracks. The responce times are different VS a farm engine, sure, you may think that they are simular, but in truth, they are much different. Most commonly practiced in performance, is improving reaction times, What we are trying to do is be able to accelerate as fast as it can, hold the torque longer, make horsepower, and do either, make a car go faster, or make a tractor pull farther. On a pulling track with these ol Faramlls, Ive learned that if the responce times are slow, so will be your trip down the track, and usually much shorter that you wish to expect. Every upgrade, has a reason to be changed for a certain gain. Here is what we are trying to do,,, on a puller, On lower hp engines, we have to get the rpms up as quickly as we can, because in a few seconds, a load will be applied on the engine, slowly brining it back down,, we want to hold it there as long as we can, and the only way would be to utilize the best force going for these engines. Centrifugal force. Anytime you can speed up the time it takes for the force to start and reach peak momentum, the more torque the force will have. on these tractors, they are restricted by the use of momentum stopping parts, like heavy mechanical advance springs, and lightweight governor springs. These parts are the main reason why these IH farm tractors dont pull well on a pulling track, but do amazing well in the fields. Where in farming, slow and consistant is best, but pulling requires fast and consistant. Cause, when pulling a plow or a disk, dont kill the engine, well it does occasionally when you hit the tough spots,, but not all the time,,, the pulling track is enevitable, your coming to a stop, either spin out from too much power, or running out of power. If you have a good powered engine on a pulling track,, and suddenly hit a tough spot, if the engine controls are not sesitive enough to change to compensate, even though the engine is strong,, the sudden drop can actually stall the engine faster, because no engine controls respond fast enough to compensate. When you speed up the reaction time, or sensitivity, when that drop occurs, the engine controls will be sensitive enough to respond. Instead of just sitting there and not responding. Resulting in the rpm not recovering and not make it through a tough spot on a pulling track. BUT, when you give the power a chance to work, you will see that the rpm will come back up to where ever you set the peak rpm to, or where you have the throttle set. the main objective here is to maintain rpm. Vet, it is a science! its dying as we go electronic! But we do it old school, dont we? CHadS

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