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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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544 deisel- a little more wisdom please- long pos

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dave from MN

11-25-2005 12:49:50




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Ok, Still looking for a new set of batts, where i get em they cant seem to keep 2 of the same CCA in stock, hopefully this weeekend. I charge the old 670 CCA to about 75%-85% charge that is all they will go. I crank engine for about 30 sec and they are both down to about 25% charge or less ( according to the meter on the batt charger, so I am assuming they are bad . Water levels were good, starter still cranks slow , as it it aint getting 12 volts. Voltmeter is DOA so i gotta pick one up with the batts. Well any way on to the starting. For sh's and gigg's I went out to see if she would start with out either, she was plugged in for about 3 hours or more. Put throttle at 1/4 pulled back the fuel shutoff to what is about 3/4 back and cranked after a few seconds she roared to life, I about shat myself, then she died just as fast as she roared to life and it would not start again. Let her sit for an hour same thing. I finally used the either to get her going so I can get here in the heated shop. ANY IDEAS WHAT GIVES. Also when she was running I pulled the fuel shut off/excess knob back slowly about mid way she started missing, about 3/4 ran smooter pulled all the way back and she was in a very high idle and running smooth as can be, To actually shut her down I have to pull that knob back ALLL the way to where it feels like I am stretching the cable and I have to do it fast or it will just go ibnto a high idle. What should be happening when and is it possible this pump/fuel lever/ timing is giving me all these starting probemss , Any advice will be very helpfull

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Big Don

11-26-2005 11:09:59




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 Re: 544 deisel- a little more wisdom please- long in reply to dave from MN, 11-25-2005 12:49:50  
It"s been a while since I worked with one of those but something seems to tell me taht some of those Bosch pumps you had to have the throttle at idle for the excess fuel to work and keep the engine running. Other versions would run with the throttle adavnced while using excess fuel. The fact of the two different characteristics of starting made it confusing, but if you don"t have the throttle at dead idle position, the next time you start, try that.
Don

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Chris in Washington

11-25-2005 13:27:00




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 Re: 544 deisel- a little more wisdom please- long in reply to dave from MN, 11-25-2005 12:49:50  
The fuel shut off gets pulled back 2/3 for starting. At that position it allows the injection pump to add more fuel. When I start my 544D, I have to immediately return the fuel shut off to the forward position or it will die. To shut down, pull the handle all the way back. Make sure your battery cables are in good condition and of the proper gauge. That is a lot of amps going through there. When some people replace a battery cable, they get a standard automotive cable that isn't big enough to handle the amperage.

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dave from MN

11-25-2005 13:45:34




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 Re: 544 deisel- a little more wisdom please- long in reply to Chris in Washington, 11-25-2005 13:27:00  
Cables are good. All are now 00 with soldered ends and no repair terminals. Starter turns like an ol 6 volt on an "h" with a low charge and thick oil in the engine. Starter was rebuilt completely by Reds auto Electric. I'll have to try pushing the knob back in asap when she pops and see if that helps. Thanks. Can any one show me a pic of where the arm on the injection pump should be in the starting postion. I just dont think that cable to pump connection is right.

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K.B.-826

11-25-2005 17:42:42




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 Re: 544 deisel- a little more wisdom please- long in reply to dave from MN, 11-25-2005 13:45:34  
Dave, sounds like you're gaining on it. Needing three hours plugged in on a day like today is 100% normal and to be expected, nothing will ever change that. Look at the side of your injection pump. See the lower arm, which has the fuel control cable attached to it? Now, do you see a plunger-like thing to the rear of this arm? As you pull the cable back, the lower arm contacts that plunger. When the arm just contacts that plunger, you are in the start-up position, You should be able to feel the arm hit the plunger as you pull the cable, if your cable slides nice and free. When the cable is pulled to the shut-off position, the arm should depress that plunger into it's bore. Now, to check this, start the engine and place the thottle lever in the low idle position. Pull the cable back until the lower arm just contacts the plunger. At this point, your engine should speed up to 1900 RPM. If not, you can adjust the plunger either forward or backward by means of the two lock nuts on the outside of it's bore. Like Chris said, you need to learn the exact moment to push the cable back forward, depending on the temp. Sometimes you need to hold it in the start-up position for a few seconds, especially if the engine is very cold, sometimes pushing it forward right away helps. One thing does seem obvious, these engines with that particular pump are very difficult to restart right after a failed start.

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dave from MN

11-25-2005 19:41:22




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 Re: 544 deisel- a little more wisdom please- long in reply to K.B.-826, 11-25-2005 17:42:42  
Thanks, reading the shop manual it matches what ya saY FOR THE PLUNGER. sOMETHING IS OUT OF WAC CAUSE TO GET THE ENGINE TO QUIT I LITTERALLY HAVE TO PULL ON THAT CABLE LIKE i AM TRYING TO PULL START A OLD ARTIC CAT. THAT ARM JUST BARELY TOUCHES THAT PLUNGER WHEN IT IS BACK ALL THE WAY, UNTILL i HORSE IT.



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George 2

11-25-2005 14:25:38




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 Re: 544 deisel- a little more wisdom please- long in reply to dave from MN, 11-25-2005 13:45:34  
I would first get winter fuel in it. I would also change the fuel filters to know it is ok. Then I would change to winter oil in the crankcase. SAE 10W CIH Diesel No1 or 10W-30. Lighter oil cuts cranking power. Winter diesel gets rid of any gel in the diesel fuel. If your batteries are both good and are 600-700 CCA then check your grounds. Finally if hard cranking persists take the starter to a competent electrical shop, replace the brushes and true up the commutator on a lathe. Then with a block heater that engine should start like a snap.

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