Hard starting I 340

Check to make sure that the choke plate is on the rod and closing all the way.

Take a compression test. Ideally, compression on most engines should be 100+, but the most important is that all cylinders be within 10% of each other. If not check valve clearances and make sure they are correct.

Point gap should be 0.020 (I think that is what you meant instead of 0.0020) and the points should be clean.

Check the timing. If it is too late it might cause it to start hard, if it’s too early the starter will slow every time a piston comes to the top dead center on compression.

Check the spark. Should be crisp blue spark jumping at least 3/8 inch to a good ground.

Check spark plug gap. Opening it up to 0.030 might help starting if you have good spark.

With the engine running take a can of starting fluid or carb cleaner and spray it around where the intake manifold connects to the head. You are looking for any signs of the engine speeding up which would indicate an air leak. Correct if you find something.

You might try lighter oil, say 10w-30 for cold weather or 5w-20 for extremely cold (below 0 F) temps.

Good luck…

The valve gap is measured between the rocker arm and the valve stem when the piston in that cylinder is a top dead center on the compression cycle. (Take out the spark plugs, put your thumb over the spark plug hole and turn the engine slowly. When you feel air push past, put a piece of stiff wire in the hole and when it stops moving out, the piston is at top dead center.) There was some discussion on the board yesterday about what temperature the engine should be to set valves. My opinion is if the shop manual says hot, then it should be done after the engine is thoroughly warmed up and done with it as close to operating temp as possible. If the spec says warm, then set them with the engine at some comfortable temp above freezing.

Hope this helps.