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544DEISEL STARTING WOES AGAIN

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dave from MN

11-15-2005 04:34:35

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2 thing I am adressing right now to start . First what CCA should I be using. Batts that were in it are about 570. Batteries plus does carry 1000 CCA batts for $79.00. I have always beleived the bigger the better for my trucks, should I do the same for my tractors? I also found a place to make new cables, Should I stick with 00 and what is best for the ground? Right now it has a 1" wide strap.Also, the fuel control lever, When I am trying to start it it does not seem to make a difference where it is, I pull it back until it touched that little stop on the pump, which is ( I believe) it is supposed to be for the cold start. When it does start and I pull the lever back it to see what it does the engine wants to stall, when I pull it bach after runnning and is warmed up it revs high. Is there anything I can check to make sure this is set up right? I had a 30+ year deisel mech work on it a while back and even had the pump rebuilt. Also is there supposed to be an oring up in where the either can goes into the either assist?

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JB2

11-15-2005 18:47:05

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Re: 544DEISEL STARTING WOES AGAIN in reply to dave from MN, 11-15-2005 04:34:35

Hi Dave, from I&T service manual for 544:
Shut-off Plunger Adjustment. The shut off plunger figure 106 provides an excess fuel starting position for the shut-off control lever on the injection pump. To adjust the shut-off plunger, operate the engine at approximately 900 RPM. Disconnect the shut-off cable, loosen jam nut on the shut-off plunger and back the plunger unit out several turns. Move the shut-off lever rearward until engine speed increases. Hold lever in this position, turn plunger in until end of plunger just contacts the lever, then tighten the jam nut. Move lever fully rearward to depress the plunger in. Engine must shut-off at this position. Connect shut-off cable to control lever.

Are you positive your injection pump timing is correct? One quick test is when engine is warm it should start in less than 1 rev of the crank shaft. If it kicks back on the starter then timing is to fast and if it requires several revs to start and engine is in good shape it is possible injectin pump timing is to slow.

My brother has a 684 with D239 and with 5W30 oil and a good battery, shut-off control lever on start position and a small shot of ether it will start to 0F and anything below requires a recirculating heater. He also has a 495 which has a D179 engine but it has a thermal heater in the manifold that also heats the fuel into the injection pump and it will start to -20F without being plugged in.

Hope this helps
JB2

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K.B.-826

11-15-2005 16:20:03

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Re: 544DEISEL STARTING WOES AGAIN in reply to dave from MN, 11-15-2005 04:34:35

Dave, I think the tractor vet is thinking of the British utilities with that engine when he says the fuel control should be halfway between run and stop. It sounds like you've got it right to me. To check, start the engine and run it about 1/4 throttle. Pull the cable back to where you hold it when you start it. The engine will slow down and start to kill until you hit the start-up position, at which point it will wind up to about 1900 RPM.

I would get the biggest cables you can. Build a battery box to hold two 6-volts with the highest CCA you can get and move the batteries close to the starter.

Throttle position makes a huge difference when starting. Set it to 1/4 throttle.

What size tank heater do you have?

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dave from MN

11-15-2005 18:12:54

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Re: 544DEISEL STARTING WOES AGAIN in reply to K.B.-826, 11-15-2005 16:20:03

I think it is 2000 watts, she gets pretty hot. Would getting 2 1000 CCA batts be a waste of money or shoulf I got 2 750 CCA's?

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K.B.-826

11-15-2005 21:13:37

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Re: 544DEISEL STARTING WOES AGAIN in reply to dave from MN, 11-15-2005 18:12:54

When it comes to batteries and cables, bigger is always better. The 1000 CCA shouldn't cost but a few more $$$ than the 750 CCA. Mabey you need to be a little more patient with the old girl. I live in MN too and have been around quite a few German engines. It is not unusual for them to need to be plugged in for at least an hour on a day like today. Many of them struggle when it's 50 degrees. Some will pop on their own on a day like today, but only if they've got the later pistons. Expecting any German engine to start on it's own below freezing is asking too much.

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the tractor vet

11-15-2005 06:19:56

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Re: 544DEISEL STARTING WOES AGAIN in reply to dave from MN, 11-15-2005 04:34:35

First off they came with two 6 volts and if they are of the 650 amp size that should be enough . Now if the injecton pump is in good shape and the cranking pressure is correct and the injectors are crackin at the correct pressure and the timming is correct and the engine has good compression then it should start cold down to around freezing . Now the COLD start is not on the throttel it is in with the shutdown cable and it works when the shutdown is placed HALF WAY between run and stop . THe stock ground cable is one of them flat braided ones and is fine the pos termianal of 00 is fine . If you want you can get away with one Group 31 battery of around 1000 cca . But this is a diesel and it is not going to start like a gasser when it gets cold . You will have to have a block heater on it and throw away you either can or you will end up killing the engine if you have not already knocked the rings out of it . You can not believe how many engines that i have tore down to find two or three pice rings in them from either.Now i am not tryen to be a smart aress here but you would be much better off with a gasser one heck of alot cheeper to fix and easier to work on and it will start anytime.

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