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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall M question's and statement's

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Randy-IA

11-12-2005 16:19:11




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Hi , I was out playing with my M putting gear oil in it and trying to get it started after I flooded it . I had to come in the house to consult my manual for spark plug gap and noticed while looking that my seat and carb don't coincide with the pictures in the manual ( dated 1950 ) , my M is a 1947 . The seat has the shock at the extreme rear of the bar behind the spring ( which is to light duty for my 265 lbs ) , the book show's it forward of the spring in the special equipment section , and my carb has a drain cock AND a drain plug which should only be on a distillate carb . Is this set in stone ?

My engine has the serial # 132866 with X1 below and to the right on the pad and the tractor has the serial # FBKM 134666 X1 , is this engine supposed to be in this frame ? I understand from an earlier post that the M in FBKM means that it has the optional low speed trany ? It also has the M&W 9 speed . Thanks for any insight ...Randy

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Brad in WI

11-14-2005 00:33:58




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to Randy-IA, 11-12-2005 16:19:11  
I also have the same seat as you have. I did the research and found a replacement shock at my local carquest store. I don't have the number handy but if you want it just ask and I will look for it. I had to take the measurements and do it that way.
Brad



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CNKS

11-12-2005 18:09:56




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to Randy-IA, 11-12-2005 16:19:11  
IH made 3 weights of springs, I believe the only one you can get now is the heavy duty one, for you that's what you need. As in the post below that one is too heavy for me at 165 lbs. You should also be able to find a stiffer shock. Although the parts manual says differently, some gas only engines had that carb. The carb on my dad's X1 H had the drain cock.



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Randy-IA

11-12-2005 19:16:06




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to CNKS, 11-12-2005 18:09:56  
Hi CNKS , Thanks ! I tried to see if the spring had the notches on it that the manual describes but without taking it apart I couldn't tell . It must be the lightest one since it carries me about 1 inch above the bottom of it's travel . My leg's are bent tight also so I'm going to have to move the seat back a bolt hole or two . I guess I'll check with the dealer and see what's available .

After the minor cleaning I did to the carb and the fuel strainer it work's OK . Still , I'm going to remove it and give it a thorough cleaning but not until I get all the rust out of the fuel tank . I cleaned the glass bowl and it had about 1/4 inch of rust in it after I pulled the 30 foot spike harrow around the field for 1/2 hour . I'm going to put on a fuel filter soon . ...Randy

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RustyFarmall

11-12-2005 17:42:49




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to Randy-IA, 11-12-2005 16:19:11  
You are correct about the carb with a drain cock being for the distillate fuel, if it bothers you the drain cock can be replaced with a 1/8 inch pipe plug. The differences inside the carb would most likely have already been changed over to the gasoline specs. The other thing you are calling a drain plug is not a drain plug, it is the device that the main metering tube is screwed into, and it cannot be removed without first disassembling the carb and removing the metering tube.

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Randy-IA

11-12-2005 19:49:28




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to RustyFarmall, 11-12-2005 17:42:49  
Hi , Heaven's no it doesn't bother me ! It came in so handy this afternoon after I had flooded it . I just drained the bowl and turned it over a few second's to clear it . But then I took the spark plug's out and worked on them . I wanted to see if they were any good and they were . I believe you are right about the gas spec's because after a little fiddling with the idle stop screw and the idle mixture screw it ran real good though it misses a little at slow idle . I didn't mess with the main jet adjustment . The plug that's just below the drain cock is the main metering tube ? It's a plug with a slot for a flat screwdriver and goes up at an angle to the rear of the carb / tractor . On my Harley carb that would be the plug to remove to get at the main jet . Till I get my service manual how does the metering tube tie in with the screw and packing nut on the front of the carb ? Is it a needle that enters the side of the metering tube at an angle to adjust the flow of fuel to the tube ? I don't want to take it apart till I get a rebuild kit for it . The carb's got number's cast in the upper throat and a very small round brass looking tag mounted on the side next to the govn'r shaft , which of these is the # to use for ordering a kit ? Thanks again ...Randy

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RustyFarmall

11-13-2005 06:50:54




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to Randy-IA, 11-12-2005 19:49:28  
Randy, please be careful when you buy the carb kit. If the kit comes packed in one of those blister packs designed to hang on a display rack you won't recieve a good set of instructions, in fact a lot of vital information is left out. That small, round brass tag has the number you need for ordering the kit. It will be 47387 if it is a distillate carb, and 50983 if it is a gas carb. Regardless of the number on the carb, you want to order a kit for 50983.

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Randy-IA

11-13-2005 09:13:57




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to RustyFarmall, 11-13-2005 06:50:54  
Hi Rusty , I looked just now and have the 47387 carb . Is there any benefit in looking for a straight gas carb ? I guess not since if it ain't broke don't fix it ? So just get the gas carb rebuild kit and be done with it ? Anything I should look for inside that may not be addressed in the rebuild instruction's ? What brand of carb is it and who has the best most complete kit's for it ? Thanks ....Randy

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RustyFarmall

11-13-2005 13:09:36




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to Randy-IA, 11-13-2005 09:13:57  
The absolute best carb kit you can get will be from your Case-IH dealer, to the tune of about $90. If you do not need a new throttle shaft then go to N.A.P.A. for about $25-$30. Both of these kits include very explicit instructions complete with an exploded diagram. What part of Iowa are you from? Send an e-mail.



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farmallhal

11-12-2005 17:03:02




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to Randy-IA, 11-12-2005 16:19:11  
Randy, the seat you describe on your M is the Monroe seat which has a long shock absorber at the rear. I believe this is an aftermarket item like your M&W 9 speed. My brother-in-law has one on his 1948 M and he is not heavy enough to compress the spring and shock at 170 pounds. His legs wear out after a couple of hours holding him back in the seat. I believe the curved pipe seat (with a big spring in the front) was standard with an upgrade to the one with the mid-mounted shock being available at additional cost when the tractor was originally purchased. Your tractor probably came with the pipe seat which was upgraded to the Monroe seat at some time later.
The engine serial number not matching the chassis s/n is quite common as no attempt was made to match them at the factory. I believe I read somewhere certain models were matched but a M was not.
I think you have the carb correct as far as the draincock goes as that is the way it is on a Super C and I can't recall what my gas M is like. Someone else can give you the carb specifics or send me an email and I'll look at mine tomorrow. Hope this helps, Hal

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scot

12-18-2005 16:51:26




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to farmallhal, 11-12-2005 17:03:02  
Hi Guys, I am hoping to get help with a problem on my Super m. It was running fine, pull choke in cold weather and start. Now it will not start very easily, and you have to pull the choke in and out to keep it running, eventually there is fire flare coming out of the exhaust. I took the carb apart and found nothing unusual. When it is running, you pull the choke to get it started and you have to keep it out until it just about quits, then push it in, and keep the throttle over idle. Then as the engine is about to quit, pull the choke out again. Now it probably will not start. It also seems to be leaking gas out of the bottom of the carb. Any advise would be appreciated.

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Randy-IA

11-12-2005 20:04:46




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to farmallhal, 11-12-2005 17:03:02  
Hi , That seat must have been a popular addition because I see them all the time . Ask your B I L if he want's to trade spring's . It feel's like this spring would be OK for someone in that weight range . I'll ask my B I L to come over and sit in it because he weigh's around that . Even the heavy spring according to my manual would be to soft for me but still a major improvement over slamming my but on every bump !

Wasn't there a post recently saying something about the M in the serial # prefix meaning the tractor had a low speed gearset or something ? Thank's ... Randy

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farmallhal

11-13-2005 06:09:09




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to Randy-IA, 11-12-2005 20:04:46  
Randy, I looked in Guy Fays IH Tractor Data Book for your code information. What I found is if the tractor had the low speed gears the letter M would be noted in the suffix following the X1 (gasoline code) as X1M. The code you are mentioning as FBKM is the engine code prefix for a M tractor while a FBK is the chassis prefix for a M.
If your tractor had the chassis suffix as X1M following the model code FBK and the digital s/n is would mean the tractor is a gasoline model for 8,000 ft. altitude and low, low gears. Hope this helps. Hal

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Randy-IA

11-13-2005 09:04:04




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to farmallhal, 11-13-2005 06:09:09  
Hi Hal , It's just a normal M then . No suffix code other than the X1 , with rust pitted , noisey gears . It has some optional equipment like the adjustable front and rear rims , The lift-all belly pump ( 2 outlet plus return ) and the pto . Pretty much standard equipment really but listed as optional in the manual . The thing that's missing is the rear light , pto guards and fenders . I checked the hydrualic level and found about 1 inch of sludge in the bottom so now that has to come off and get rebuilt . This is the kind of tractor I like ! Easy to work on and hopefully easy to get parts for . Definetly not going to make any money on this one ! Ha-Ha ! But then again I can't bring myself to sell anything I have that's mechanical . Such as my Harley , bought it new in '84 , haven't ridden it in 5 years now , birds are pooping on it and cat's sleep on it in the shed . Oh Well , at least if I ever get the urge again it's there ! Thanks ...Randy

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old

11-12-2005 16:57:47




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to Randy-IA, 11-12-2005 16:19:11  
Nope that stuff isn't set in stone, you can always put a drain cock in the drain plug place. Also some one may or may not have changed seats at one time.



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Randy-IA

11-12-2005 20:37:03




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 Re: Farmall M question's and statement's in reply to old, 11-12-2005 16:57:47  
Hi Old , Thanks . It never occured to me that it could be an aftermarket seat , Duh! The carb work's just fine and will work better when I take it apart and clean it good . The trany ? Now that's a-goin' to be a project ! I know the gear's have rust pit's but I don't know if that's why it's noisey , it might be the throw out bearing ( doubtful ) or the pilot bushing but more likely it's the input shaft bearing or bearing's . Split time ! It coast's just as quiet as a mouse with the clutch disengaged . But it still work's just fine for now . It's still 2-1/2 gallon's shy of being full of gear lube but I don't think that'll make a difference . It looked like the axle end seals leak also . So the wheel's have to come off . There's lot's of work to do on it , but it run's good and working on it is why I bought it . Take care ...Randy

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