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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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engine knock

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fenton

10-20-2005 09:48:48




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I just bought a 1952 Farmall Super A. After shes warmed up she sometimes has a upper engine knock like a diesel and she's gas but only at just above idle speed sitting still. I have 10w/30 in her for winter use. Is the knock normal for these 4 cyl. engines? It's not loud and goes away if running abouve idle.




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El Toro

10-20-2005 10:29:11




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 Re: engine knock in reply to fenton, 10-20-2005 09:48:48  
How much oil pressure at idle? Do you always hear it at idle even after the engine is at operating temp? Hal



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fenton

10-20-2005 10:36:29




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 Re: engine knock in reply to El Toro, 10-20-2005 10:29:11  
The funny thing is Hal, it only does it after she's warmed up and running for a while and just above idle speed, it quits when at idle or if you are at a higher speed...just at above idle and when warmed up.



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BillyinStoughton

10-20-2005 10:18:05




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 Re: Engine Knock in reply to fenton, 10-20-2005 09:48:48  
It could be a number of things...something as simple as timing for example. Check your ICH manual and set timing at factory recommendation.
Also check for correct spark on all cylinders.

Another aid in trouble shooting may be "what type of knock is it?". Is it a heavy single knock (maybe bottom end related), or a light double knock (indicating a wrist pin)? All these things may help you get to the root of your problem.

Remember, any moving part in your engine can be a culprit in a mechanical noise...so don"t overlook for valve train either!

Hope this helps!

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fenton

10-20-2005 10:20:25




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 Re: Engine Knock in reply to BillyinStoughton, 10-20-2005 10:18:05  
Thanks...it could be anything....



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shrps74

10-20-2005 11:19:43




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 Re: Engine Knock in reply to fenton, 10-20-2005 10:20:25  
Fenton, since its "new to you", first thing I'd do is pull the valve cover and adjust the valves. Sometimes a way out valve lash can sound that way. Good luck! BobG in VA



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P and R Pete

10-20-2005 11:17:59




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 Re: Engine Knock in reply to fenton, 10-20-2005 10:20:25  
This may not be of any help at all, but it's an interesting trick I just learned from this forum, and it's to take a wooden rod (I happened to have a two foot section of 1" dowel) and put one end against the engine and the other against your ear, and move it around to different places on your crankcase, head, clutch housing, etc. You can hear very localized internal engine noises surprisingly clearly. Yhis may help you in pinning down the approximate location of the knocking.

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Janicholson

10-20-2005 12:02:31




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 Re: Engine Knock in reply to P and R Pete, 10-20-2005 11:17:59  
Wrist pin knocks are rpm sensitive. They are not oil pressur related because the wrist pin is not in the pressureized part of the system. They can stay noticable for years before thy start to cause concern, or they can get louder steadily.

Pieces of combustion chamber deposits can also cause the same sound. These engines have large flat areas of the head that face the piston (squish area) that can trap a chunk of deposit and knock for quite a time then gradually go away. Just my two cents in the mix of other good ideas.
JimN

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PR Pete

10-20-2005 13:45:12




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 Re: Engine Knock in reply to Janicholson, 10-20-2005 12:02:31  
JIm, your reply raises a question...
On starting my Harley one spring, I had a loud tapping from the engine. The local shop thought a piece of carbon had gotten stuck under a valve, holding it open, and the tapping was the now-loose-pushrod. Their solution was to take off the air-cleaner and make a spray or two of misted-water through the carb while the engine was running hard enough not to stall. Cured it almost instantaneously.
They told me to open 'er up good, next time I was going up a long hill, to blow out any more of those deposits. You ever hear of this being applied to a tractor engine?

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Janicholson

10-20-2005 14:40:44




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 Re: Engine Knock in reply to PR Pete, 10-20-2005 13:45:12  
There are as many solutions as mechanics. The water deluge is at least benign to the neighbors, putting a cup of ATF in the intake in a thin stream isn't so kind. Tractors often run at 50% power or more. Old leaded gasoline leaves deposits good enough for bank of america. New gasoline with injector cleaners and far less chemical (metalic) additives is likely to clean deposits off of surfaces, at least it lets them decay instead of building up. If your tactor is putting around doing very little, I'd put a load on it for an hour or three doing real work just to ("Blow" it out). JimN
JimN

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