Removing injection pump on a MD

And yep, Geoff's method of leaving the three bolts in the gear and just sliding the whole hub off the pump input shaft will work great too and you won't alter the original pump timing.

Just be carefull taking it apart, and especially so as you are going back together, to not lose the key on the shaft and let if fall down inside the front cover.

Once all the fuel lines, linkages, etc. are off, get the motor to TDC on #1. On mine there was a groove on the crankshaft pully and a pointer so that part was easy.

There should be a stamped steel cover in front of the pump. Remove that and notice the position of where the gears are. Wipe any oil off of them that may be there. There should be three bolts holding the drive gear on and a "pointer" that goes to degree marks on the gear. These three bolts go through slotted holes in the gear, allowing you to adjust pump timing. Take note of where that pointer is pointed. On mine there was a chisel mark(from the factory) on the pump hub that the drive gear bolts to. The chisel mark lines up with a mark on the gear if I remember right. Also I think there were punch marks(again from the factory) on both the drive and driven gears. These should all be lined up at TDC#1. If your memory is like mine, take the time to grab a peice of paper and sketch out the gears and where all the marks are. Unbolt the gear from the pump and unbolt the pump from the engine and it's ready to come off. The pump gear, at least on mine, stayed in the engine. Take care not to turn the engine while the pump's off and it should all go back together easily enough. It's been a couple years since I did mine so the details might be off a bit, but the main point is that there are marks from the factory that'll let everything be back in time when you put her back together as long as all the marks are lined up like they were before. Mine started right up once everything was bled out- hope your luck is as good!

Once all the fuel lines, linkages, etc. are off, get the motor to TDC on #1. On mine there was a groove on the crankshaft pully and a pointer so that part was easy.

There should be a stamped steel cover in front of the pump. Remove that and notice the position of where the gears are. Wipe any oil off of them that may be there. There should be three bolts holding the drive gear on and a "pointer" that goes to degree marks on the gear. These three bolts go through slotted holes in the gear, allowing you to adjust pump timing. Take note of where that pointer is pointed. On mine there was a chisel mark(from the factory) on the pump hub that the drive gear bolts to. The chisel mark lines up with a mark on the gear if I remember right. Also I think there were punch marks(again from the factory) on both the drive and driven gears. These should all be lined up at TDC#1. If your memory is like mine, take the time to grab a peice of paper and sketch out the gears and where all the marks are. Unbolt the gear from the pump and unbolt the pump from the engine and it's ready to come off. The pump gear, at least on mine, stayed in the engine. Take care not to turn the engine while the pump's off and it should all go back together easily enough. It's been a couple years since I did mine so the details might be off a bit, but the main point is that there are marks from the factory that'll let everything be back in time when you put her back together as long as all the marks are lined up like they were before. Mine started right up once everything was bled out- hope your luck is as good!