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Brining a Famall M out of storage--Questions.

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Blue3992

10-17-2005 16:01:10

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I have a Farmall M that has sat in the barn unused for about 6 years. I replaced the points and distributor cap and troubleshot some electrical wiring, and got it running. I bought a carb kit to put in it as well. Some questions though:

What kind of oil should I use in the crankcase? I have no idea what weight is in there now. I plan to use the tractor throughout the rest of the fall and maybe a couple of times over the winter.

SAE-90 in the crankcase, right?

I was thinking about flushing the cooling system, but I�m a little hesitant to, because I�m afraid that the rust and minerals might be the only thing holding the inside of the radiator together. Any one have any advice?

Is there anything else I should look out for when brining this thing back to life?

Thanks.

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Janicholson

10-18-2005 13:16:01

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Some oil thinking in reply to Blue3992, 10-17-2005 16:01:10

Multi weight oil.
10W-30 oil is a viscosity stabilized oil. This means that when compared to single wt. oils made in the forty's and fifties its viscosity stays more uniform in cold and hot.
At normal internal engine temperatures a 10-30 oil will remain the same "thickness" as a 30wt. At low temps the oil will not thicken any more than a 10wt.

This makes starting as easy as with a 10wt. and running under load in summer as safe as a 30wt.

The American Petroleum Institute (and other sites) have the specifics.
15-40 is thus as thin as 15wt when real cold, and as thick as 40 when operating.

The point is, there is no compromise in safety or effective lubrication at all with these oils.

Synthetic oils are even broader in viscosity stability. and provide appropriate advantage. In new or fresh rebuilds, I use synthetic beacuse engines don't wearout as fast with them in the crankcase. If an engine uses oil, or leaks it it is not a candidate for synthetic due to cost.
Hope I helped!
JimN

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Nat

10-18-2005 06:08:05

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Re: Brining a Famall M out of storage--Questions. in reply to Blue3992, 10-17-2005 16:01:10

The best thing I can recommend for you at this point is that you get a reproduction owner's manual and the I&T service manual at the very least.

Oil is traditionally 30W non-detergent, like CaseIH LOW ASH, but getting the engine oil "exactly right" is not crucial. It's probably had 30W non-detergent all its life, so that's the safest bet due to the sludge buildup in the engine. If you start using 10W-40 detergent oil in it now, the sludge will start coming loose and causing all sorts of problems.

I believe you mean SAE90 in the REAR END, not the crankcase... Yeah, that's what's recommended IIRC.

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Mel in OR

10-17-2005 18:16:46

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Re: Brining a Famall M out of storage--Questions. in reply to Blue3992, 10-17-2005 16:01:10

Just went through this - similar circumstances. The gas was so bad it ruined the first carb kit. Check the tank bottom and the fuel bowl and gas line - there was residue in mine. There was crystalized gas or something in the connection to the govenor at the carb. There was a lot of sludge in the bottow of the oil pan - cleaned that. Changed oil and filter, ran a short time and changed again. Didn't find water in the transmission but we don't have freezing weather in my location. Will be flushing the radiator next. My experience...

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Delbert

10-17-2005 17:35:39

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Re: Brining a Famall M out of storage--Questions. in reply to Blue3992, 10-17-2005 16:01:10

I would use whatever you use in your car and pickup. I have a M and a super H that i use 10w30 in year around. Don,t use them much so works for me. Maybe if you were going to plow or disc with it where you would pull it hard all day then might go to 30 weight. But not sure i would then even don,t think it would hurt much. Only thing after setting that long might want change oil after using it a few days. Most say it takes 8 quarts when changeing the filter i always put in 9 quarts with filter change that,s what the old guy,s all told me when i was a kid i,m almost 61 now been around farmalls all my life.

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farmallhal

10-17-2005 16:18:51

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Re: Brining a Famall M out of storage--Questions. in reply to Blue3992, 10-17-2005 16:01:10

The M owners manual states 30W above 32 F, 20W 32F to 10F, and 10W below 10F. A lot of folks on this forum like 15W-40 so you will have to decide what to use. I use 30W year around but don't really use my M in real cold weather. I do get it out and run it for an hour or so a few times during the winter but pick warmer days. The oil bath air cleaner should also have the same weight as in the engine block.
SAE 90 is what the manuals states for the differential and transmission case. Takes 13 gallons. Fill to the level plug on the left side.
I would flush the radiator and see what if any problems you have and get them taken care of during the off season. Don't want to find a plugged radiator when using the tractor in warmer weather. Drain block as well and get some new clean anti-freeze in the system. Cooling system will take 6 gals.
Hope this helps. Hal

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P Backus

10-17-2005 16:15:00

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Re: Brining a Famall M out of storage--Questions. in reply to Blue3992, 10-17-2005 16:01:10

SAE 90 in the GEARcase, not the crankcase. Most folks use SAE30 or 10W30 in the crankcase. On a gas tractor I personally would use 10W30 especially for the winter, unless you are really going to work it hard, ie hours and hours of working land or other max power situations.
As far as the cooling system, it seems like those radiators are pretty rugged and flushing shouldn"t hurt, although they rarely will come close to running warm, much less overheating, so flushing may not be necessary.
I"d at least check the tranny/rear end oil to make sure that you don"t have water in it. After the tractor has been sitting a while, loosen the drain plug just enough to let out a little liquid (water or oil), but be careful not to drop the plug, or you will be draining the whole thing!
Paul

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