300U stuck on wet paper Kleenex

Seriously, if you're spinning, that means you're trying to do too much. Beyond new tires, loaded tires, and 2 sets of standard wheel weights, I wouldn't dare any more traction enhancements. Things start to break at some point.

JB2

Thanks,

Remember too, that the more weight you apply to the chassis of that tractor, the more stress you apply. (I.E. the increased traction gained for moving a heavy load will put an additional load on everything from the input shaft of the transmission all the way to the axles of the rear end itself. Just like more power brakes parts, so too does traction versus load.

Good luck!

I think I'll add 55 gallon drums filled with concret to each wheel. It ought to do something.

I had a tractor very similar configuration to yours, a Cockshutt 540 with about same size loader. Believe me the barrel of concrete on the hitch made a huge difference. Mine was 3 point thus I added attachments for 3 point cast right into the concrete. You can do the same for fast hitch. Make it quick for putting on or off. When using tractor for jobs other than loader, I'd drop the bucket plus the rear weight. The only advantage I had over yours the Cockshutt had a straight front axle as opposed to the 300 swept back axle.

One mistake was made with those IH and for that matter some other utilities. They should have had two front axle options Swept back for work involving manuverability and a straight axle for loader work. The low utility tractor does have a place in the farm workplace.

Just a note, I did eventually take that big heavy loader off my Cockshutt an mount it on my Farmall 300. The longer wheel base does make a big difference, but I still used the concrete counter weight. I even used the counter weight later on my Farmall 560 with IH 2000 loader. In all these examples I still used wheel weights plus maximum calcium chloride. The wheel weight does give you stability from tipping sideways.