c113 engine boring

I"ve heard of pullers that go quite a bit larger but not without alot of custom machine work and constant problems with leaks after they try to seal the sleeves up with hardblock (or other epoxy).

I wouldn"t recommend trying to turn down the sleeves on an 3-1/4" overbore kit to fit in this motor. You can do the math; 3-5/16" OD at O-ring on sleeve less a 3-1/4" piston bore = 1/16", divided by 2 leaves only 1/32" of material in your sleeve. The original setup was (3-5/16" - 3") / 2 = 5/32" in the sleeve; the overbore kit gives (3-5/16 - 3-1/8) / 2 = 3/32" in the sleeve. That"s as thin as I want to try on the sleeves.
Stan(VA).

Don't recall exact numbers at the shop, wasn't bad though, less work than boring through fixed sleeves (only have an inch or two rather than full length, but setup time is probably the same for them).

The tisco stepped head usually look like a rectangle a quarter inch high on top of the piston. I've seen tru-power pistons advertised on ebay that have more like two smaller squares raised from the rectangle outline. Fire craters are the original IH replacements that are very rounded with two domes and a slight dish in the center. I haven't heard of fire flow pistons. Since you don't know the pin height or volume of the various domes or steps, it's hard to do a comparison unless you have them in your hands.
Stan(VA).

I restored an A and I used the 3.125" kit in that
and it had plenty of power, enough to make the tires slip some pulling a 16-inch moldboard plow in sod. That's with wheel weights and the tires filled. Hal