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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Turbo D-358

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Jim Allen

08-24-2005 09:19:59




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I remember somebody on the board has a turbo D358 in an 826. If so, could you talk about what you did to make that happen? It looks like an easy retrofit. Mine has a seperate section on the manifold with a square flange, so it looks like this engine was designed to be turbocharged. The low compression is another plus in that regard. What I don't know yet is if it the NA version has oil cooled pistons. I have an intercooler sitting around from a diesel pickup.....

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Jim Allen

08-25-2005 05:17:46




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 Re: Turbo D-358 in reply to Jim Allen, 08-24-2005 09:19:59  
Whatever the real compression ratio is, it's low enough to make a turbo work well. You have to be really careful turbo-ing a high CR diesel (21-22:1) so as not to build up too much cylinder pressure. FYI, K.B., the intercooler I have laying around is too big to fit anywhere on my tractor, but I think there is room to build a bracket in front of the grill and install the right sized one there (with its own grille). I'm gonna run mine a while before I go that far. It runs well but has a fair number of hours. I'll have to decide it its stout enough to boost safely. I'm gonna run a compressrion and CLT test on it this fall after planting.

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MN Scott

08-24-2005 20:18:39




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 Re: Turbo D-358 in reply to Jim Allen, 08-24-2005 09:19:59  
Just a comment on the compression ratio on the german diesels. My factory IH german diesel service manual dated 1970 states all german diesel engines have 16-1 ratio. My IH manual on the 300 and 400 series engines dated 1980 states the following compression ratio's. D-312, D-360, D436 are 17-1. DT-360, D-414, DT-414, DT-436 are 16-1. D and DT 466 15.4-1. The german's do not have as low a compression ratio as some people think. BTW, I just removed a M&W turbo from a 756 if any one is interested. Fits all 6 cylinder german diesel's.

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Allan in NE

08-25-2005 04:25:47




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 Re: Turbo D-358 in reply to MN Scott, 08-24-2005 20:18:39  
Mornin' Scott,

Boy, I just dunno 'bout that.

I agree that the Germans run in at about 16:1. That's why the replacement pistons are 17:1 to make 'em start easier in cold weather and why all the retrofitting was/is going on.

However, I really question your manual's figures on the American engines.

The old glow plug equipped diesels ran compression ratios of 15:1; hence the need for preheating to get 'em to start.

But, if I recall correctly, the 300, 400 and newer series engines have pressures in at about 22:1 range. This, coupled with the higher head/nozzle pressures of the fuel system, are why they start so darned easy.

The higher compression ratios is also the reason why they have that distinct, high pitched "rattling" sound to 'em.

Dunno,

Allan

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MN Scott

08-25-2005 06:56:11




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 Re: Turbo D-358 in reply to Allan in NE, 08-25-2005 04:25:47  
Might be a misprint or something but that's the ratio's printed. I did notice one differance, the compression pressure's. The german's are 315-340 and the 300 and 400's are 385-415. That's the big differnce. Maybe between 1970 and 1980 they had a different way of stateing base and total compression ratio's? Or could it be cam timing or angle that would change pressure's. Your right too, the american bosch pump's had close to a 1000 more psi than the robert bosch pump's. I don't know.

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K.B.-826

08-24-2005 17:10:54




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 Re: Turbo D-358 in reply to Jim Allen, 08-24-2005 09:19:59  
That was probably me. Ours has the M&W kit. The M&W Gear Co. made bolt-on turbo kits for popular 90-horse tractors in the '60's and '70's. Tons of 826's have these, in fact, I have probably seen more of them with this turbo kit than without. The kit came with a replacement cast manifold outlet which bolted between the manifold and turbo. It also came with an add-on engine oil filter. The filter base is mounted to the engine using a piece of angle iron and two of the lifter cover bolts. You run a braided-steel line from one of the engine oil galley plugs to the inlet of the filter, and the outlet line goes to the turbo. The return oil from the turbo drains through a "oil cooler" type hose back to a fitting that you install into the injection pump nut/drive gear access cover. The factory intake hose is modified to work, and you add a piece of radiator hose between the air cleaner and the turbo. The muffler is replaced with a straightpipe. These kits can be picked up at salvage yards for around $500, but figure on getting all new oil lines, intake hoses, having a fuel injection/turbo shop rebuilt the turbo, and having a farm equipment shop that knows IH's dyno it and set the pump, so you'll have around $1000 into it all said and done. Ours put out 99 hp before new injectors and rebuilt turbo, 107 hp now. The 358 was never factory-turbocharged in an ag application, but I think it was for some industrial use. The pistons in your engine are oil-cooled. If you can figure out how to make that intercooler work, let me know.

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ozfarm

08-25-2005 00:29:30




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 Re: Turbo D-358 in reply to K.B.-826, 08-24-2005 17:10:54  
There is a DT-358

used in the 976/986 tractors that where built in australia,

they also use different internal components



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