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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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HOT COIL

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Clint S.

08-17-2005 15:10:07




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I have a model 200 that has an intermintent quitting problem. When it quits it will not start and the coil gets very very hot. The tractor has been converted to 12 volts and runs great when it runs. I have replaced wires, rotor and points, but not the condenser. It has done the same thing with a different coil also. Bad condenser or bad wiring need help??




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MidMiGene

08-18-2005 07:35:47




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to Clint S., 08-17-2005 15:10:07  
I used to know for sure, why you needed the resistor, but my mind has retired. I think the resistor helps keep the points from burning and pitting prematurly (sp). Also, some systems have a bypass wired to the start circuit. When you are in start position, you get a full 12 volts to the coil and points, because actual starting drags down the available voltage. After starting circuit is dis-engaged, the resistor circuit provides a lower voltage to the coil and points. Gene

PS Can someone confirm my thoughts, so I know that I haven"t completely lost it?

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John T

08-17-2005 19:12:58




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to Clint S., 08-17-2005 15:10:07  
Clint, First of all, if you upgraded to 12 volts but kept the 6 volt coil, shes drawing twice the current it was designed to handle, overheats, and will eventually fry PLUS the excess points current causes them and the condensor to go bad prematurely. Sure, she will have a good strong spark for a while until the coil goes bad or the points or condensor go out.

If its still a 6 volt coil, YOU MUST add a series voltage dropping ballast resistor of around 1.5 to 1.85 ohms at 25 watts or so in series from the ignition switches output down to the coils input. It will drop around 6 volts leaving 6 at the coil as it was designed for. Excess current and heat are enemies of long point and condensor life plus the coil will eventually fail. You should be able to lay your hand on a normally warm coil, but if it gets so hot you cant hold your hand to it THATS TOO HOT.

You may wanna install a fresh condensor n points after you add the series ballast then you ought to be good to go.

John T, retired electrical engineer in Indiana

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El Toro

08-18-2005 04:49:38




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to John T, 08-17-2005 19:12:58  
Hi John, I think when autos and boats were using
12 volt ignition systems with the conventional
points and condenser, they used a ballast resistor to drop that voltage. Hal



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John T

08-18-2005 06:45:22




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to El Toro, 08-18-2005 04:49:38  
They sure did, I believe GM used the bathtub ceramic style while some Fords used a resistive wire instead. Thats when Ford used that solenolid with the lil extra I terminal to by pass the ballast. That was back in my day when I was cuttin my teeth lol. On 12 volt systems they used a 6 volt coil and the ballast dropped 6 volts.

Take care, John T



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El Toro

08-18-2005 06:59:57




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to John T, 08-18-2005 06:45:22  
I think some ignition systems used an internal
resistor in their coils too. Hal



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hartley

08-17-2005 18:16:04




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to Clint S., 08-17-2005 15:10:07  
I have a 200 thats been converted to 12v i have a ballast resistor mine works fine that seems to be your problem



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Clint S

08-17-2005 17:50:57




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to Clint S., 08-17-2005 15:10:07  
I am using a 12 volt coil so I did not think I needed a resister. Do I still need a resister when using the 12 volt coil. Were would I place the resister if so. Would I place it between the coil and the distributer.



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RayP(MI)

08-17-2005 18:17:34




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to Clint S, 08-17-2005 17:50:57  
Using a 12v coil and no resistor on my 200 - works fine. Hot coil may mean that it is shorted, or damaged. Otherwise check out rest of ignition system. Plugs, points, condensor, rotor, dist. cap. You should not need a resistor if you have a 12v coil in a 12v system.



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Clint s

08-17-2005 18:50:37




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to RayP(MI), 08-17-2005 18:17:34  

The only thing in the ignition that I have not replaced is the condenser. I am using a 12 volt coil could the condenser be causing my problems. I have had the problem with 2 different coils so I do not think it is the coil



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PAULIH300

08-17-2005 19:27:03




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to Clint s, 08-17-2005 18:50:37  
There are coils with built in resistor,and coils that need an external resistor.Make sure you know which one you have.One that does not require an external resistor would be preferrable.But if you get one that needs one,its no big deal to wire one to the hot side of the coil.Some coil brackets have an extra tab to screw a ballast resistor to,so mounting it is no biggie either.



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chip man

08-17-2005 18:00:57




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to Clint S, 08-17-2005 17:50:57  
The ballast resistor goes between the ignition switch, and the coil



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old

08-17-2005 16:48:43




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to Clint S., 08-17-2005 15:10:07  
First off any time you replace you should also replace the condenser. As Hal has said you probably need a ballast resistor in line with the coil with out one coils burn out and so do points. I use ones made for a mid 70s dodge.



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EL Toro

08-17-2005 15:47:25




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to Clint S., 08-17-2005 15:10:07  
I think you need a ballast resistor to drop that voltage. Hal



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PAULIH300

08-17-2005 15:36:27




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 Re: HOT COIL in reply to Clint S., 08-17-2005 15:10:07  
Either you have a 6V coil being fed 12V or no resistor.



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