Farmhand F10 loader on Farmall M

I read the post from larry dw and I have a few question that someone can hopefully help me with.

The M tractor I bought has a Farmhand loader similar to the one Allen posted, except mine has springs near the bucket. Allen also mention that its possible to break a tractor with these (did I understand correct or miss something)

How strong are these loaders and is it something I can lift buckets full of dirt or another M tractor that doesn't have tires off a trailers :)? I really don't know and have no desire to find out after its to late.

I posted a picture and tried to attach it- don't know if it will work.

Thank you for your comments and help.

I will try and post a few more photos of the side that I have.

And no I don't want any heartaches, I appreaciate your help. Heartache...Huskers last year put me on the transplant list after receiving a defibulator for the 7-7 season.

One other question, the left side of the farmhand loader drips fluid and it the line runs inside the frame. Any suggustions?

If it is bleeding out of that cylinder inside the frame, that is from your tilt cylinder, which lives in there.

Very easy to pull and re-seal. Be a good time to replace that cable too.

Allan

I know I'm on a soap box, but it isn't just the Farmalls either. All tractors will break in two if enough pressure is applied.

Someone was talking a few months back about a 4020 John Deere split down the middle. UGH!

Allan

Your loader is rated something like 2 ton to 27 feet (if I remember correctly).

Hope I'm not scarin' everybody; chances are it will last a lifetime and never cause you any grief.

However, it is just that I've seen a lot of broken tractors under these things and it is so darned easy to rid the loader of the problem by using a simple little strut.

Your tractor has the "old style" mount, which stops right in front of the rear axle and these mounts were re-designed after the breaking problem started showing up with these loaders.

If you could take a picture of that tractor from the side and still showing that underslung mount, I can show you how to build a bullet-proof brace to stop the breakage problem.

Just trying to save someone a little heartache,

Allan

Out of 3/8" steel plate (the green part), build a roughly 10" triangular plate to bolt between the tractor's frame rail and the Farmhand's strut arm.

Drill a hole in that rear mount and run a piece of 3/4" or 1" threaded rod (blue in the drawing) up to the plate and attach it such a way as too be able to tighten or put "tension" or "pull" from the front of the tractor to the rear.

This transfers the downward load pressure to a linear axis to the axles. Also, it helps eliviate the "twisting" effect pressure too.

Here's a drawing and a picture of the way I did my little H and the F-11 loader.

Allan

We had F-10 loaders on a TE-20 and a TO-30. Same loader there.Then a Cockshutt 30 and later an M Farmall.Dad liked the Cockshutt but I preferred the Ferguson. Never had a tractor break in two. They are good tuff loaders. We stacked alot of hay and loaded out alot of poop.
You can lift more then the back end of the tractor will hold down. So be careful.

steveormary

What is this about the Huskers?? My scourse in Omaha seems to think they will do better this year.

steveormary