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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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IH 300 or 350?

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Terry Miller

07-31-2005 18:58:18




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I am interested in buying a used IH 300 or 350 utility tractor. The reason is for planting food plots for deer, we have an apple orchard 300 trees, general use, snow removal and to partially restore one with my two sons. I grew up with H"s and M"s and would prefer something shorter and a little smaller. What should I be looking for? Should I not buy one without a loader? Power steering? Whats the big difference between a 300 and 350?

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rumplestiltskin

08-01-2005 09:39:07




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 Re: IH 300 or 350? in reply to Terry Miller, 07-31-2005 18:58:18  
Most likely trouble spots:

1 - Steering gear box.

2 - Torque amplifier ("TA"), if it has one. You can use the tractor without it, but it"s better to have it working. Repair is neither cheap nor easy. If the TA doesn"t work, knock some serious bucks off your offer.

3 - PTO, if it has one. Make sure it starts and stops.

Mark W.



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CNKS

07-31-2005 19:30:00




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 Re: IH 300 or 350? in reply to Terry Miller, 07-31-2005 18:58:18  
If you have a choice, don't pay attention to the number, but buy the one in the best condition. The 350 has slightly more HP, due to a 175 cid engine compared to 169 in the 300. The 350 fast hitch has traction control. Steering on both may be in bad shape, particularly if it has seen extensive loader use. Steering parts are hard to come by. Power steering is a definite advantage. A loader can be handy even for occasional use -- I have little use for one, but have wished a had one several times. If you have a lot of snow, you will probably find it indespensible.

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Janicholson

08-01-2005 05:54:09




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 Re: IH 300 or 350? in reply to CNKS, 07-31-2005 19:30:00  
Those of us who have lived (or still live with tractors from our youth believe they are the berries under all conditions. I'm a 350ute type. The choice seems unimportant between the 300, and the 350. Both seem to be very good choices based on your circumstances. Upon ownership, the following are important:
1) change all fluids trans, dif, hy-tran, and engine oil/filter.
2)Clean all filters and screens (hydraulic suction screen particularly).
3) Run the most inexpensive grade of clean gasoline, or up tp 15% gasohol. They will eat it just fine, the compression was designed for even worse gasoline, and they do not need lead, or lead substitute. (I'll stick by this from massive experience, others may protest, but no-lead gasoline is one of the cleanest burning deposit free conventional (non-compressed gas)fuels.
4) if 6v neg ground, use "o" size cables and clean all connections to shiny bright. Coat all connections with Dow 111 silicon non-conductive grease (it is clear, and doesn't run off, and keeps corrosion to nothing. If 12v neg ground with an alternator & 6v starter, enjoy they will last without worry.
5) use the TA, it is a great tool for convienient control of ground speed and engine saving gear change without stopping. Use keeps them younger than avoidance. (ours has never been down from day one 1 in 1957 to today, and it is used more often than the clutch)
Lots of luck and many happy hours with your to be ute, Jim Nicholson

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