Can't Get It Through My Thick Skull

• Is the back the down pressure valve (close to ground) and the front is the up pressure, closer to the seat?
• Which side do I hook the back hose to, close to the ground? Left front or back port or right port.
• Which side do I hook the front hose to, closer to the seat? Left front or back port or right port.
• I understand I need a special fitting for down pressure, if I do where can I get this and what is it called?
• Where do I put this special fitting? Be nice now.

Thanks for your patience and responses.

That is one-way hydraulics. Without a two-way valve and additional plumbing, you only have one-way hydraulics.

The simplest way to hook up the 3pt hitch is pressure-up, gravity-down.

Connect one cylinder's bottom line to the front port on the left, and connect the other cylinder's bottom line to the port on the right.

The top of each cylinder will need to be vented. You can buy vent caps at most machinery dealers. Just take the hose you took off the top of the cylinder with you to get the right size.

I sense that you just want to get this thing going and to do that I'd let go of the down pressure goal - you can always add that later. Get a couple of breathers for the upper ports on each cylinder. Hook one hose from the bottom of the clutch-pedal side cylinder to the front port from the lift-all pump on the clutch-pedal side. Hook the hose from the bottom of the brake-pedal side cylinder to the port from the lift-all pump on the brake-pedal side.

When first operating the hitch, I'd keep a couple of oil-drain pans under the cylinders as you may displace some oil out the breathers. If this keeps happening after several operations, you probably have oil leaking past the seals and will want to rig some return-line plumbing to get that oil back to the reservoir. I _think_ this can be done by joining both upper hoses with a T and then running a single hose from the other side of the T to the filler port on the lift-all. To connect that single hose to the filler port, I'd try another T connected vertically so the short arm of the T is connected to the return line. Then put your filler tube cap on top with a closed nipple. You need to preserve the breathing capabilities at the filler tube as this allows for fluctuations in the amount of oil in the reservoir.

I've never done this but have heard about it being done this way so you'll probably want to get some sort of confirmation before proceeding. Anyone who's had direct experience with this type of setup, please feel free to confirm, add or correct anything written here.

The fact that your tractor already has hoses to both ends of hydraulic lift cylinders does not automatically mean you have dual action hydraulics. That hose going to the ram end of the hydraulic cylinder was often placed there for two very simple reasons. First it gave added hydraulic resovoir, and secondly it reclaimed any oil that bypassed within the cylinder and diverted it back to belly pump resovoir. In the early days of hydraulics this was a very efficient way of avoiding messey hydraulic oil leaks.

As for the plumbing directions you are asking for, my guess is your going to need photos. I've seen litterally hundreds of different hydraulic plumbing on Farmall H and M tractors. Remember a picture is worth a thousand words.