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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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How to plumb a 3 pt hitch on an H

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Dave in CT

07-15-2005 15:57:56




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Started the 3 point hitch project. Mounted one that was built for either an H or an M - 220 pounds for the frame alone - guess I won't be needing that second set of wheel weights.

This hitch was built to take 2 hydraulic cylinders - I would imagine the standard 3" x 8" ag cylinders. From what I've read so far, most people put breathers on double-action cylinders as down-pressure is widely regarded as not needed. I hear it's a good idea to put a flow control valve set to restrict the return flow as to allow for a controlled drop of the implement. Does one plumb a single line from either of the high-pressure ports on the lift-all to a control valve and then two lines from that control valve to the two cylinders? If so, what type of control valve? Does the fluid return through the control valve to the resevoir or does one need to handle that seperately?

Anyone have a schematic for a similar setup?

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NDS

07-16-2005 14:35:26




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 Re: How to plumb a 3 pt hitch on an H in reply to Dave in CT, 07-15-2005 15:57:56  
IH made a 3 1/2 X 8 inch cylinder (PN 360 997 R91) with a hydraulic stroke limiter. These worked by sliding a collar on cylinder shaft to desired downsroke limit and tightening clamp. When collar hit limit stop valve on cylinder downstroke stopped. These work great on 3 point hitch with cutters, cultivators, planters etc. once you get things set implement stops at exact spot every time it is dropped. Might be hard to find but IMHO they are the way to go.

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riverbend

07-15-2005 20:54:02




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 Re: How to plumb a 3 pt hitch on an H in reply to Dave in CT, 07-15-2005 15:57:56  
The practical limit for a 3 point hitch on an H appears to be about 500 pounds (the front gets light). If I were going to do it again, I would use (2) 2" X 8" cylinders. They are plenty to pick up 500# with 750 psi hydraulic pressure, and would lift faster (~2X) than 3" cyclinders.

Beyond what others have said, I have a Cross hydraulic switch (one inlet, two outlets) so I can use the 3 pt, or the snow bucket, or a remote cylinder (w/o the loader).

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Roger WI

07-15-2005 18:29:13




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 Re: How to plumb a 3 pt hitch on an H in reply to Dave in CT, 07-15-2005 15:57:56  
I just put a Saginaw 3-point hitch on my son's H. I ended up running a separate hydraulic hose from each cylinder to the connections on each side of the tractor. I have had trouble with my Super H 3-point cylinder leaking past the internal cylinder piston. When I would raise the 3-point after it sat for a while I would get oil squirting out of the vent I had on the other side of the cylinder. So I just ran a piece of low pressure tubing from the down pressure side of the cylinder into the filler tube on the belly pump unit. That way if any leakage occurs it goes back into the system. Roger

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CNKS

07-15-2005 18:00:28




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 Re: How to plumb a 3 pt hitch on an H in reply to Dave in CT, 07-15-2005 15:57:56  
If you have the belly pump and no "Christmas tree" (factory remote), just run one line and tee it to the cylinders. As you say vent the down side of each. You have two way already if you have the factory remote. If you are adding a control valve in order to have 2-way the procedure is (I think): Outlet to control valve, control valve to up cylinder, down cylinder to control valve, control valve to belly pump inlet. You can either tee the line from the control valve to the cylinders, using one outlet, or use both outlets (the front one on each side), one to each cylinder. The return line should connect the cylinders together, however. I have a Super H with a live pump, no factory or aftermarket control valve, power up, gravity down with just the main control lever, a single line teed to the dual cylinder Saginaw 3-point. It works fine without any additional valving, except vents for the down portion of the cylinders.

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Dave in CT

07-15-2005 18:45:47




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 Re: How to plumb a 3 pt hitch on an H in reply to CNKS, 07-15-2005 18:00:28  
Thanks. I don't have the christmas tree, though if one comes my way I'll probably get one. Did you do your lines in metal up to the back of the trans cover? I was thinking of getting some metal lines made up to cut down on the clutter, then having the last foot to each cylinder be hose. How is your control valve mounted? What diameter hoses did you use and what are the diameters of the ports on your control valve? Sorry to be so picky but I want to get it right the first time.

Thanks for the help.

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CNKS

07-15-2005 19:13:03




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 Re: How to plumb a 3 pt hitch on an H in reply to Dave in CT, 07-15-2005 18:45:47  
I don't have a control valve. You only need an additional valve if you want 2-way, or perhaps if as you mentioned, you want something to give you some buffering action -- I am not familiar with that -- mine works ok with the factory lever, except that I have a factory live pump. I had hydraulic hose made to fit. Steel lines would be nice, but you can run the hose under trans/rear end cover, as long as you tie it good so that it doesn't interfere with the clutch and brake pedals. The actual size of the hose is not important, I believe mine are 1/2 inch. As to the factory routing, I have never seen an H or M with the hoses running to the rear for trailing implements, which is really what you are going to have for the 3 point. Perhaps someone else can give a description.

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nositri

07-15-2005 19:34:33




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 Re: How to plumb a 3 pt hitch on an H in reply to CNKS, 07-15-2005 19:13:03  
I've seen hydraulic lines ran to the rear of an m farmall with an ih control valve, and the lines were run under a metal cover that bolted to the trans/rear end cover.



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