I"m new to the world of red after tiring of borrowing, breaking and fixing my cousin"s JD"s. Unfortunately, after purchasing my 1066, I have yet to work it as it was designed due to the annoying repairs that always seem to be missed when looking it over before the purchase. Only being able to go to the farm on the rare weekend and waiting on parts has also slowed the process as well. This started out as a simple fluids change and minor repair session. I ordered and replaced the right hand lower link on the 3 point since the inside ball socket was blown out. When I pulled the arm, I noticed that the RH crank arm was not lining up and the block was not in the slot, it was moved to the left about 1/2 an inch. Here"s where it started getting ugly. The crank arm had been run for some time without the block in the slot and the splines were worn at an angle and only held in place by the torsion bar anchor bracket. The torque tube looks fine fortunately. The tube did not want to move to the right so that I could get the block into the crank slot. I was desperate, and thought that the u-bolted arm inside the case was some how binding and not allowing the tube to move to the right. So I pulled the PTO unit since I was changing the fluid anyway, putting it back in is another story. The inner sensing arm was u-bolted almost all the way to the left, so that didn"t seem to be the problem and with some persuading with a block, large hammer and a prybar we were able to center it. Now I am concerned about the u-bolted sensing arm and how it rests on the lever up in the frame. When the crank arm is pushed forward the sensing arm pops off of the lever. Is this normal? Also the draft adjusting lever in the cab is spring loaded and stays forward. Is this normal? I wasn"t able to run the tractor since something must have been left on and the tractor was un-jumpable. Will the hydraulics change the draft adjustment operation if the tractor is running? Also when I put the draft sensing tube and crank arms back together, there was a little preload when I put the torsion bar bracket on and the gap between the right crank arm and the stop adjustment is about 1/2 an inch. I am also fairly confident that the sensing arm will slip off the internal lever if I push the arm all the way forward. Have I done anything right? As you can tell everything went about normal for a project like this, the manuals are of little help and I am, to say the least, discouraged. Any input would be appreciated. Pete
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