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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall C Charging Problem

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Brian Schmidt

07-09-2005 20:18:12




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I have a 6V C that has worked well for several years. Recently it has stopped charging when I first start it. I have to polarize the regulator every time I start it to get it charging. I have changed the battery as it was old and changed the regulator. I have adjusted the spring that cuts the gen out when you shut it off as loose as it can be and still open up when it shuts off. I can push this down manually when it is started and it will hold. It just won't pull it down on it's own. Once it starts charging, it works well. What have I missed?

Thanks in advance!!

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Gary north of Spokane

07-10-2005 10:58:55




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 Re: Farmall C Charging Problem in reply to Brian Schmidt, 07-09-2005 20:18:12  
I didn't grow up in an era of generators and I'm kinda confused about this polarizing phenomena. When is it necessary to polarize? I just got a new battery in my "C" and am finding that when I put the switch into any position other than "low charge" the ammeter shows -10 or so. At the first position, it charges +3 or +4 which is enough to keep the battery up. If I turn on the lights, I will wind up pushing it! Thanks in advance.

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Bob

07-10-2005 00:19:53




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 Re: Farmall C Charging Problem in reply to Brian Schmidt, 07-09-2005 20:18:12  
You DO NOT polarize a regulator, you polarize the GENERATOR, (even though you may be making the connections at the regulator to do the polarizing). Polarizing restores the residual magnetism in the generator's polepieces AND restores it in the correct direction, so the generator will charge with a polarity matching that of the battery.

Before starting the tractor, put a GOOD jumper wire from ther generator's "F" terminal to a good chassis ground. Be sure the connections are clean at both ends, and making good contact.

If the generator charges at startup (it will be full-charge with the jumper wire in place), it points to a bad regulator, specifically dirty points on the voltage/current regulator unit, or even a bad ground.

If the generator DOES NOT charge at start-up full fielded in this manner, it points to generator problems, which could range from a dirty commutator/bad brushes to a bad solder joint on one of the commutator bars, to a shorted winding.

Conductive debris between commutator segments can cause this problem. Try cleaning out the "undercuts" between the commutator bars with a broken hacksaw blade that has been ground thinner to match the thickness of the groove between the segments.

The use of an armature testing device called a "growler" can check for several of the previously mentioned problems.

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