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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Replacing knuckle in PTO

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Working

06-13-2005 05:15:21




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I have a 1100 (?) balanced head mower that has a knuckle outon the PTO shaft. This unit has no visible keeper - are they pressed in?




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captaink

06-13-2005 06:30:39




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 Re: Replacing knuckle in PTO in reply to Working , 06-13-2005 05:15:21  
On my 1100 mower the snap ring keeper in in the inside of the yoke. Sometimes not easy to see or get out.



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Working

06-13-2005 07:14:09




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 Re: Replacing knuckle in PTO in reply to captaink, 06-13-2005 06:30:39  
That might be my issue - guess I'll have to look a little closer and clean some grease up to see what I have.



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Working

06-13-2005 10:55:07




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 Re: Replacing knuckle in PTO in reply to Working , 06-13-2005 07:14:09  
You were right, the keepers are on the inside and look like a real bugger to get off.



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captaink

06-13-2005 11:21:04




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 Re: Replacing knuckle in PTO in reply to Working, 06-13-2005 10:55:07  
You are right, they are not the easiest to get apart. I squeeze the yoke in a vise using a ½” drive socket that is smaller in diameter than the bearing against one side in an attempt to push it over far enough to get the clip out. Usually I had the best luck by driving the clip off with a hammer and a punch until I could get something under the opposite side to pry it off with. After that it’s pretty much like any other universal joint.

Holler if you need more info.

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Working

06-13-2005 13:25:07




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 Re: Replacing knuckle in PTO in reply to captaink, 06-13-2005 11:21:04  
Thanks for your help. I'll be hammering on it tonight, I'll post any adverse results in the morning. By the way, NAPA charged $11.00 for the new cross.



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Allan in NE

06-13-2005 05:30:51




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 Re: Replacing knuckle in PTO in reply to Working , 06-13-2005 05:15:21  
Hi Work,

Not familiar with your particular outfit, but it may be configured like GM's u-joints. From the factory, they are held in place by an internal ring of teflon.

What you do is, SLOWLY heat the cup area of the yoke with a torch and the stuff will boil out of a little bleed hole. When the teflon stops "worming" out of the bleed hole, you can then remove the cup in the usual way.

Clean the yoke up good; replacement cross cups are then held in place by the conventional internal C-clip.

DON'T HEAT THE YOKE TOO FAST! The darn things explode and shoot that cup across the shop like a bullet.

Allan

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