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super m carb serial number

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farmall

06-12-2005 09:33:26




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I have a super mta and I drilled out the main jet because I'm crazy and now I'm looking for a new stock carb. Just wondering what seial numbers will fit? I found one that has a serial number 361525r92 and the chake hook up is close to the motor,will it work?




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ChadS

06-12-2005 11:05:37




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 Re: super m carb serial number in reply to farmall, 06-12-2005 09:33:26  
All of the throttle bodys from the M-MTA were the same, they did have different part numbers, but were basicly the same casting. The 400-450 carbs have the idle screw in the carb flange, where the M-MTA has the idle screw along the lower side of the venturi. The carb bowls are different on the SM and MTA, the choke is on the opposite side of the bowl, M's have them on the left side, Supers had them on the right. (towards the engine) Most differences were main jet size, venturi size, and the choke shaft was a different diameter. Keep you throttle body, and the venturi from the origianl carb off the MTA, just use the carb bowl from the carb you found. That keeps the origianl part number of the throttle body on the MTA. Now as far as jet drilling,,,, If that MTA is a stocker,, you dont have to drill it much,,, maybe 2-3 sizes larger than the original jet size. if you went more than that, you went too far. You also have to remove the brass metering stem when you do this, otherwise you will drill right through the stem, and it will run erratic. Too rich. If the stem is ok, you can still use the bowl you drilled out,,, you just wont have any kind of fine tuning adjustment, 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn, and its either rich, or lean, like on the usual,, you have to back it out a couple of turns to see a change in the engine's fuel mixture. It will be extremly tempermental on where the main load adjustment is set, cause you may have lost the fine tuning ability by going too big. If you do choose to attempt this again, it wont take much, maybe 2 drill bit sizes from the origianl jet,,,, if you can back the adjustment out all the way, while its under a load, and it does not run rich, then a jet change is nessisary, if it does run richer, and you can notice a change, then the jet size is fine where its at. Hope this helps,,, ChadS

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farmall

06-12-2005 13:21:45




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 Re: super m carb serial number in reply to ChadS, 06-12-2005 11:05:37  
First of all, thanks for the input and thanks for the govenor springs. I put a denny's ( I know) 4.310 stepped pistons kit in it. I didn'
t stroke it or anything and when I went to my first pull the spark plugs were nice and brown. I didn't have any more adjustment with the carb so I drilled it out and when I did I put the drill bit in the hole and ithit what I thought was the bottom but that I think was where the hole was that I was suppose to drill. So is there like a brass guide hole before the actual jet hole that is alot bigger than the jet hole? I went 2 sizes bigger and drilled right threw. Now about the govenor springs. I bought one for my super h and one for the smta WOW the super h pulled in a local stock 5200 pound class and it pulled a full pull in second gear. In the pull off I pulled in first and place 5th out of 20. This is a 1954 totally stock super h with 120psi compression. The super m keeps fowelling the plugs and I know its because of the carb main jet. I just cant adjust it . In your post did you mean that the m and super m bowls are different?

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farmall

06-14-2005 22:03:56




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 Re: super m carb serial number in reply to farmall, 06-12-2005 13:21:45  
If I put a 12 volt coil on a six volt points system will it wreck anything?



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ChadS

06-15-2005 06:49:47




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 Re: super m carb serial number in reply to farmall, 06-14-2005 22:03:56  
Should be ok, When you run a hotter 12 volt coil with points, you run a resistor to keep the voltage level down, so it does not burn up the point contacts. Your doing the same thing by using 12 volt coil, and only putting 6 maybe 8 volts of power into it, it does the same thing as the resistor your not feeding the ign the full 12 volts. A good coil to try is the ACCEL super stock coil sold at napa. if your system was 12 volts, you can run this coild with no resitor, and full 12 volts, and not burn up the point contacts. Will work with under 12 volts too. Chad

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ChadS

06-13-2005 09:01:22




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 Re: super m carb serial number in reply to farmall, 06-12-2005 13:21:45  
OK hold on. I was thinking this was a 264, not the 306. Look at the venturi, there is a number on the bottom side towards the bowl. This 2 digit number is what size the venturi is. example, 23/32. I've seen MTA's with up to a #27 venturi, which is just a shade smaller than the 450 venturi of 29. If you have a real small venturi number, like 25 or less, you need to put in a bigger sized venturi. See, what happens on bigger cubed engines trying to run on the stock venturi, with the stock jet size, it will run leaner, and you can back the adjustment all the way out, and not see any change. So, a jet change,, now it runs richer,, quite richer cause you have increase the fuel, thats due to the limited airflow. Open the venturi up, and let more air in the manifold, and that should give you back some of the adjustment on the load screw. More cubes,, needs more fuel, and a bit more air. Your feeding 306 cubes, at a higher compression ratio VS stock,, not much more, but its still a bigger displacement to feed. Now on the brass main jet, its a brass insert, that has alot of different sizes in the ID. the OD of the insert are all the same in all Shebler carbs on SH-up to the 6 cyl engines. I dont know if that is a replaceable part sold by parts dealers. Did you drill out the entire brass insert, or did you just enlarge the actual jet size? If its just the jet size you enlarged 2 sizes, then continue and find a larger venturi. Find one out of IH combine, that had a gas 6 cyl engine. a 33 is a good one to look for, there are yet bigger ones out there, but I dont think you will need much over 33 venturi size. If you drilled out the entire brass insert, you need the other bowl. No the M bowl is not the same as the SM bowls. The choke lever is on the other side on the SM, and the jet size is bigger than the M, but not bigger than your MTA. Other than that, they are interchangable with the throttle body. Governor springs make a difference that can be noticed in the seat. They usually have to rejet the carb to keep up with the governor. Alot of problems arrise when people buy aftermarket engine kits for the old Farmalls. Tempers flare, cause something is not just right, and it wont run the way they thought the $$ they spent on it should. A majority of they people that do spend hard earned $$ to do this, spend even more, and not like what they get back. Each engine has its own characteristics. Not just one size fits all. If its right, and you dont have to spend even more $$ on it, and you do it yourself, it makes ya proud that you did it, and you know a little more about your tractor. If you did drill out the entire brass jet, its not junk, it can be saved. Hope this helps a bit more. ChadS

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farmall

06-13-2005 22:25:50




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 Re: super m carb serial number in reply to ChadS, 06-13-2005 09:01:22  
The super mta I just drilled the hole 2 sizes bigger and the plugs are really fowling, I can turn the jet screw in and the black smoke will be reuced but when I give it a shot of gas there isen't enough. You said something about the coil. I have a original style but new 6 volt coil, do I need to change it? When I put new plugs in the tractor runs like a million bucks but when it idless before it pulls it starts alot of black smoke and then it won't run worth a darn. I was just going to go back to a stock carb but it sounds like I wouldn't be using the money I already spent in the engine to its upmost potential which was my original goal. Now super h time, I put the spring in and the rpms are now plentyful. I checked the plugs after the pull and they were light black, so I'm asuming that it is getting more than enough gas. Is there anything else I should be donig to this tractor (timing) or am I close to the end. That govenor spring brought the life back to that super h. Its revs so hight that I can't get the idle down to a low idle, but that doesn,t worry me at all. Thank-you for your help it is greatly appreciated.

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ChadS

06-14-2005 08:08:13




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 Re: super m carb serial number in reply to farmall, 06-13-2005 22:25:50  
Better have a second look at the idle circuit in the throttle body, and the carb bowl. Its running off the main jet for some reason. Two reasons the carb will do that. Either the idle passage is plugged in the air side of the circuit, not letting air pass by the throttle shaft at idle, 9 times out of 10 its plugged up, and causes this symptom. It will pull the fuel from the metering stem instead of the idle passage. If you have a 6 volt system, do you have the electronic conversion kit, or still running points? If your running points, on 6 volts, no resistor, then put on a 12 volt coil, and no resistor at 6 volts, or what ever your generator puts out, it will give it a little more spark, and not be so bad on the point contacts. Its either that, or convert it to 12 volt, or get the conversion kit. On the Super H rpm at idle,, check the top bolt inside the governor for the idle adjustment speed. With the linkage in idle, (not running) with the governor cover off, see if the top adjustment bolt is touching the housing, if it is, back the bolt out a few turns, this should bring the rpms back down. It is a heavy spring, and it takes the tension out of the governor tightens it up I guess you could say,, and some need to be adjusted to compensate. ChadS

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farmall

06-13-2005 22:58:17




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 Re: super m carb serial number in reply to farmall, 06-13-2005 22:25:50  
Do you know where I can get a 33 venturi from/ Do you think that denny's has them?



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