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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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1948 C Restoration

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Pharmall

06-04-2005 07:08:57




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Good morning all! Been lurking around here a few months getting lots of good advice while preparing to restore a 1948 C (FC 21786/FCM 22013G). No big suprises (yet). The tractor was running, sort of, and all original with decent rubber and good rims, working PTO, hydraulics, and belt pulley. A couple of thick coats of paint preserved a lot of the orignal dirt, but the part that sold me was one of those little teardrop tailights that mount on top of the rear work light. They look really neat.

Right now, everything is taken apart but the tranny. The engine is in pieces, except for those sleeve liners that are supposed to be easy to remove! Guess I 'll have to make a sleeve puller. The pulley is still on the crankshaft, and I'd leave it there except that the crankshaft seal was leaking pretty bad. Still have to take apart the steering gear too. The shop manual says that it's "obvious after inspection", but I've always been a little thick.

If anyone is looking for info on the innards of the engine (number of teeth, timing marks, dimensions, etc., I would be glad to take some measurements or photos. This one had an overbore 3 1/8" set of pistons installed, so those liners have to come out before parts can be ordered. Was that just a thinner sleeve wall, or would the casting have to have been bored larger? Maybe that has something to do with how stubborn they are. The crankshaft journals aren't too bad and I will probably get away with a .010" grind. All of the bearings had some copper showing, and the center main bearing was nearly all copper. That extra clearance probably made it easier to pump the sludge through the engine!

If you're near eastern Connecticut, the local antique tractor club has a show and flea market tomorrow (Sunday June 5th) at the Woodstock Fairgrounds (Rte. 169, South Woodstock, CT) from 8-3. There will be 70 - 100 machines. It is supposed to be a sunny warm day (at last!). God Bless!

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El Toro

06-04-2005 13:00:28




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 Re: 1948 C Restoration in reply to Pharmall, 06-04-2005 07:08:57  
That A had the C113 engine when I got it. I put
the 3.125" sleeve and piston kit in it. Hal



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Andrew Z

06-04-2005 18:35:18




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 Re: 1948 C Restoration in reply to El Toro, 06-04-2005 13:00:28  
I'll be there at the show with my A and Allis B. Sould be a good turn out, with the good weather in all. Andrew



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El Toro

06-04-2005 08:38:24




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 Re: 1948 C Restoration in reply to Pharmall, 06-04-2005 07:08:57  
The A, B and C C113 blocks would accept the 3.125"
sleeve and piston kit without any machining to the block. Those wet sleeves can be removed with
a piece of oak or maple wood. They're not pressed
in. Just tap them lightly so you don't damage the block. Be sure to clean the block area where those sleeve seals (doughnuts) are installed. You don't want any water leakage
on those sleeves.

That damper pulley probably has a groove worn into the metal from the old seal. You can install
a speedy-sleeve to cover that and are available
from NAPA or your local auto store that sells Chicago Rawhide seals. That would stop your oil leakage.

I have a sketch of a sleeve puller, if you want a copy send me an email. Your local machine shop can make one for you. Hal

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El Toro

06-04-2005 12:53:58




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 Re: 1948 C Restoration in reply to El Toro, 06-04-2005 08:38:24  
I restored an A that had the C123 engine and the engine was seized. I poured transmission fluid
over the pistons and I let them soak for a few days and I then drove the pistons out with a piece
of wood. Some of the sleeves came out with the pistons. Two other pistons came out ok and I then drove the sleeves out. They're not pressed in and are held by that old hardened seal at the bottom of the block. You may need a puller that's pretty thick and would grip the outer edge
of the old sleeve if they're that tight. Hal

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Pharmall

06-04-2005 19:41:38




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 Re: 1948 C Restoration in reply to El Toro, 06-04-2005 12:53:58  
Made two discs from 1/2" plate with holes in the center for a 5/
8" threaded rod. The bottom plate is 1/8" bigger than the sleeve skirt, and the top plate is big enough to put some 1" standoffs under the edges so that the top flange of the sleeve is clear to move. Run the threaded rod thru with a nut on each end. If that doesn't get them out, well, I'm just not sure what could be keeping them in. If those are the 3 5/16" OD sleeves, with a 3 1/8" piston, then the sleeve walls are only 3/32" thick...

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El Toro

06-05-2005 03:43:29




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 Re: 1948 C Restoration in reply to Pharmall, 06-04-2005 19:41:38  
Spray some that Dawn Power Dissolver around the base of those sleeves and see if that loosens the
sleeves. They are just stuck from being installed for so long. Could be rust too. Hal
PS: They rent sleeve pullers too.



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Pharmall

06-04-2005 10:35:56




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 Re: 1948 C Restoration in reply to El Toro, 06-04-2005 08:38:24  
Thanks Hal. Just finished making the sleeve puller - two flat discs with a hole in the center, threaded rod, and a standoffs for the top. Will try it out tomorrow but have to mow and go to a couple of ball games this afternoon. I was really suprised how tight the sleeves are. Blocked the engine upside-down, with crank and camshaft removed, laid a 2" thick piece of white oak on top of the sleeve, and used a 2" steel rod on the white oak with a 3 lb hammer. The end of the sleeve cut through the crossgrain of the oak 1/2" deep and it didn"t budge. Tried all four of them with the same result. I"m thinking something got screwed up when the overbore kit was put in. The bottom edge of the sleeve is almost a knife edge. That"s why I was wondering about the sleeve wall thickness with the oversize piston. Perhaps I"m about to have my first "moment" with this rebuild...

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Charlie V aka f20II

06-04-2005 07:40:00




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 Re: 1948 C Restoration in reply to Pharmall, 06-04-2005 07:08:57  
Sounds as if your taking the right steps to do a nice restoration on the "C". My partners an have about four "C" one is a SC in real nice shape, the others are in need of some TLC. We now have two H's in the shop that are being restored from the ground up like you "C", we have a "B", Cub, a couple of WD9's an a few MD's waiting in line all to be redone in the futurer. I hope you enjoy restoring these old tractors as much as we do, it's takes alot of money to do one right an I'm glad to see someone doing a bang up job with one like you are doing. Good luck an have fun that what it's all about.

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Pharmall

06-04-2005 08:10:53




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 Re: 1948 C Restoration in reply to Charlie V aka f20II, 06-04-2005 07:40:00  
Wow! That"s a lot of tractors to work on. I"m jealous. Been chomping at the bit to start on this one, and recently told the boss to "take this job and...restructure it", so there is finally time (but not as much dough). They really are beautiful machines, and it"s a joy to work on something that was designed to last. It"s no fun trying to fix broken six-month old junk.

Just finished a "working restoration" on one of those 21hp Cub Super Garden Tractors witha 60" mowing deck and snowplow. Only 13 years old, but it looked like it was never maintained. After some TLC it did a great job snow plowing and spreading gravel on the drive this spring, and is now enjoying mowing duty.

Don"t know how this C was used or where it came from, but it doesn"t look like it was worked too hard. Only a few dents and not much wear on the pedals. No recent maintenance, though. The engine oil drained like gritty black 90W, and the tranny oil drained like grease. I have my eye on a rusty old M that is surrounded by brush and saplings. Maybe the old guy will let me tow it away...

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KRUSS

06-04-2005 14:40:56




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 Re: 1948 C Restoration in reply to Pharmall, 06-04-2005 08:10:53  
Buy that M if possible, give it the TLC you're giving the C and then you'll have a tractor that nobody alive today will ever wear out. good luck.



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Pharmall

06-04-2005 19:29:11




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 Re: 1948 C Restoration in reply to KRUSS, 06-04-2005 14:40:56  
Hoping he will pay me to haul it away! That's a nice thought about making things so they will last. Guess that's why this is so enjoyable - most of the time anyway. But if those sleeves don't come out I'm going to become a monk...



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