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Axle ratios, continued

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CNKS

04-27-2005 13:55:00




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Regarding my previous post, I appreciate everyone's comments. Had my burned oil changed this morning, drove about 10 miles so as I could get an accurate reading when hot, trans still works fine, but I won't say for how long. Shifts are soft when hot, harder when cold, IMO the soft shifts may be the 1st indication of slippage, but the shifts are still crisp with no increase in rpm. Actually, of the 83000 miles, only about 1000+ are with a loaded trailer, 5 times at 2-300 miles each. But, I think 1000 miles all at once against the typical 20-30 mph Kansas headwind would have killed it. Another 1000 empty. I always keep the fluid changed. Transmission guy says a lot of the heat comes from the lockup torque converter unlocking, he says there is more fluid flow with it locked, that's a new one on me, it locks and unlocks in both 3rd and overdrive, so driving in 3rd doesn't help as much as I thought. -- someone said there is a kit for that. What I am going to do for now is--nothing. Once I get the urge to buy another distant tractor, I am probably going to get the gears changed to 3.73's, rather than 4.10, from the current 3.42 (the original salesman mentioned that to me 13 years ago, but I didn't like the way the 3.73 truck I should have bought was equipped, and at that time had no intention of towing). Will probably get a bigger oil cooler. The 3.73 ratio will probably improve mileage because of less shifting, even empty, the 350 TBI is a little underpowered for the way I drive (empty or loaded) it should help that some. I have no desire to trade the truck, the truck is in better condition than many 3-5 years old that don't get the care this one does, if the trans gives up, it is simply bullet biting time, and a rebuilt transmission. As the saying goes the vehicle has served me well, it is far from dead.

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captaink

04-29-2005 11:11:40




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to CNKS, 04-27-2005 13:55:00  
First off, if your tranny goes south, find a good reputable shop and tell them exactly what you are going to use your pickup for. They will then know how to rebuild the transmission so that you don't have problems in the future.

I put together a ½ ton pickup to do nothing but pull trailers. I had a 327 out front, a 350 Turbo-Hydromatic transmission and 3.73 gears with 15 inch tires. I had my local radiator man take the stock radiator, pull it apart, and put in a core with one more row of tubes for additional cooling. Then I added a transmission cooler AFTER the fluid went through the cooler in the radiator. The radiator ran cool and so did the transmission. I pulled it about 35000 miles (most of it pulling) before the rear end went out and the body started falling apart enough to warrant buying a different pickup.

By the way, when I got done with building that 327 it would out-pull the 460 Ford with 3.54 gears I bought afterwards hands down, and used 1/3 less gas to do it!

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riverbend

04-27-2005 16:59:11




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to CNKS, 04-27-2005 13:55:00  
Is renting a truck an option for the once in a while towing ?



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lee

04-27-2005 19:26:39




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to riverbend, 04-27-2005 16:59:11  
Neither Penske or U-haul will rent you a truck to pull your own trailer. You'd have to just rent it, not tell them, and do it and hope for no accidents or other issues on the road. Probably not recommended.



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CNKS

04-27-2005 17:36:41




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to riverbend, 04-27-2005 16:59:11  
Local rental place has Dodge 1 tons -- won't rent for what I want to use it for because of insurance. I suppose they rent locally for people moving or something. The local U-Haul place doesn't have pickups -- if they did I doubt they would rent me one either.



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NDS

04-27-2005 16:13:22




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to CNKS, 04-27-2005 13:55:00  
I have owned similar trucks and vans with both 3.42 and 3.73 ratios and did not notice big difference. Actually I prefer 3.42 for towing because I can shift down to second on long hills and maintain 50-55 mph without overreving. Have towed 5000 lb travel trailer coast to coast border to border at least 100K miles over last 30 years with similar set up to yours and never had overheating problem. On other hand I now own 1994 2500 454 4.10 factory tow package with auxilary electric fan and it will overheat with 8000 lb. trailer on long hill if you push it to hard

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CNKS

04-27-2005 18:00:26




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to NDS, 04-27-2005 16:13:22  
I really haven't tried 2nd, I drive mostly on 2-lane, and don't like holding up traffic. Compare a 20-30 mph headwind to an 80 mile grade -- that's how long I would have had to use 2nd on my last trip. I did remotely consider an add on split range, sort of like a 2 speed axle, with that in 2nd overdrive, rpm would be high, but not excessive -- costs about $3000 installed -- can't justify it for as little towing as I do. Perhaps I drive too fast. I usually try to maintain 60-65 mph, last trip I tried 60 mph, temperature did not drop any. It does not overheat when it's fairly flat with no wind -- with a grade, you go up for a while, then you likely have the same distance down, and a chance to cool off. Even when flat, the headwind is always there. With my luck, the only time its behind me is when I'm running empty. Average wind speed at Dodge City KS is 13 mph -- 24 hr average -- meaning in 3/4 of the time somewhere between 10 and 30, with higher gusts.

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lee

04-27-2005 20:15:47




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to CNKS, 04-27-2005 18:00:26  
You mentioned driving too fast. I was thinking a bit to myself you might just save yourself some heartache if you back out of the accelerator just a wee bit.



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NDS

04-27-2005 18:41:50




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to CNKS, 04-27-2005 18:00:26  
I have towed across Kansas several times with travel trailer that is about like pulling 2 pieces of 4x8 plywood through the air. Have also towed in high plains in Wyoming, Utah, Montana and believe me they have some wind but no ovrtheating problems. Did have one 1987 Chev. 305 700R4 3.42 that would heat up when new but after swapping to HD radiator it never went above normal towed 5000 lbs across Kansas with that one and had no problem running with traffic.

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CNKS

04-27-2005 18:53:21




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to NDS, 04-27-2005 18:41:50  
NDS--You changed the radiator, so the trans cooler in the radiator was bigger? -- what happens if I simply bypass the radiator, and run direct to and from the external oil cooler? If I run transmission oil thru a 200-210 degree radiator, doesn't the external cooler just have that much more to cool? Have heard varying opinions on that. I asked the transmission place if I bypassed the radiator, do I need to run it thru the radiator in the winter -- he said it was impossible to overcool a transmission. I asked the same thing of a local mechanic (not a transmission specialist), he said to run it through the radiator....??

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onefarmer

04-28-2005 12:41:29




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to CNKS, 04-27-2005 18:53:21  
The tranny cooler in the radiator is in the cool tank (after the antifreeze has been cooled) not in the hot fresh from the engine 195-210 tank. So there would be some cooling running the tranny fluid to the radiator then the addon cooler. You said in another post that you was told there was more fluid flow when the converter was locked up. I'm don't know about that, but if the converter is locked up it will run cooler due to no slipage. The most heat made by an auto tyranny is from the converter. Think of how fast it would heat up if you sat and brake torqued it. If the converter is having trouble staying locked even in 3rd (direct) then definitly check out that kit mentioned to cure that. I will only increase the life of the tranny in it's current state and after any future rebuilds

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CNKS

04-28-2005 15:07:25




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to onefarmer, 04-28-2005 12:41:29  
You are correct about the factory cooler being in the "cooler" tank -- however, about as many people say bypass it as say run it through the tank, so I don't know. I'm switching to synthetic oil which is "supposed" to take the heat better, and am probably adding another larger cooler in series with the existing one. Haven't checked on the lockup kit yet. I think I will eventually get it cooled down. I don't own a trailer, if I did the best way to see what works is to try each thing separately by towing one of my tractors around locally for a while, rather than the shotgun approach I'll probably use.

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onefarmer

04-29-2005 09:17:16




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to CNKS, 04-28-2005 15:07:25  
Running it thru the tank will cool the fluid the most and allow the add on cooler to cool the fluid even more with ambient air. The only time I would bypass the radiator is if the engine tends to over heat, but that would be another issue we won't get into.
-Jon



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RustyFarmall

04-27-2005 14:17:19




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to CNKS, 04-27-2005 13:55:00  
I think you have made the right decision. Basically, the truck owes you nothing, so if the transmission does go south on you, you can afford to spend a little on it.



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CNKS

04-27-2005 18:08:39




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 Re: Axle ratios, continued in reply to RustyFarmall, 04-27-2005 14:17:19  
Yup, that's my opinion.



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