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1066 info?

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becker

01-14-2005 17:31:59




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Purchased a '73 1066 from a buddy last fall. It's gear driven with a T/A, red cab. Buddy told me a 1086 engine was put in it when he bought it. Does this sound plausible and if so what where the horse powers of both engines? I've seen some pretty high numbers on the forum. Did the red cabs come out later than the white cabs? Clutch works good but no back pressure on the pedal, just found a broken spring, does this make sense? Knocks in third gear, believe a tooth is gone, rolled the cab back to work on ranges, but don't plan to go into the gears just yet. Brakes are slow to react and seem poor....is this just set up, linings or is there a hyrdraulic problem...steering and else seems good. Hydraulic levers sticky, is this in the spools and is there a rebuild kit. Any and all info greatly appreciated.


Dorn

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Aces

01-15-2005 10:31:33




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 Re: 1066 info? in reply to becker, 01-14-2005 17:31:59  
Becher The 86 series brakes were a little different then the 06 through the 66 series tractors but you said you had 1066.I here people say manual brakes not good, if one understands the system and if all is as it should be have done this many times on 06, 56, 26 anf 66 series tractors the brakes will slide the wheels just as well and fast as power. Having said that all must be in good shape. This means the brake disc the self adjuster screws (MUST) be in perfect working arder the locking clip on the screw (MUST) be in perfect order. When the repair is being done the screw must be free enough to push it by just a finger with out the clip. Then the master cylinder must be in good shap. The way to check for manual brakes is to do as simple test. With out the engine running push one brake peddle down as far has it will go, hold it down as you push the other down if the first peddle drops farther when you push the second peddle you have manual brke on the first peddle, repeat the operation on the second peddle to see if the test works if so you have to good manual brakes. When I ever rebuilt brakes for a customer after I had them working nuder power I always made to test for manual brkes the one I just discribed and then I would find a SAFE place shut off the engine release the brakes let it roll a little way then hit the brake should slid the wheels. AS I Said a SAFE place to do this test.

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becker

01-16-2005 15:56:25




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 Re: 1066 info? in reply to Aces, 01-15-2005 10:31:33  
Thanks to all for the info. Have pretty much answered my questions and gave me good leads. Rolled the cab back to do other things as well, wasn't that hard and makes things more accessible. Actually took the top off the range tranny to fix the indents on the shift forks...all the gears are good and confirmed that it is the third gear that's buggered. I've done similar work on other tractors, just new to the IH.

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JJK

01-15-2005 08:35:07




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 Re: 1066 info? in reply to becker, 01-14-2005 17:31:59  
I"m a mechanic at a Case IH dealership and after reading your questions and responses, most of the info sounds right. The only things I question are the brake problem, hyd. lever problem, and why your rolling the cab back? Brakes are usually a little slow, pedal will push back when applying, and you need hyd. pressure to activate brakes so manual braking will be poor. Hyd. lever sticking is usually the detents in the hyd. valve. They get rusty or dirty and hang up making the lever pull harder out from these positions. This is hardest on the outside lever because its a smaller shaft, will flex, and wear faster. Rolling the cab back doesn"t sound necessary for anything your doing. What is your purpose and do you have a proper hoist to hold cab up while working underneath it? The only time I"ve rolled the cab back is to do a TA job. If the noise in 3rd is there in both high and low range it will be in the speed trans., not in the range trans.(If this is why your looking in the range trans.) You should still be able to get plenty of info from an IH dealer that still works on these older tractors like we do.

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K.B.-826

01-14-2005 20:04:38




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 Re: 1066 info? in reply to becker, 01-14-2005 17:31:59  
1066 and 1086 both have a DT-414. 1066 is right around 120 horsepower, 1086 is right around 130. There were actually three factory cabs for the 66 series. First came the "diamond shaped" cab like the 26/56 series had. Next came the white cab, then the red cab in '73. What do you mean by "no back pressure on the clutch pedal"? Do you mean nothing is pulling it back, and it just flops ahead until the throwout bearing hits the fingers? There's a spring between the clutch pedal and the platform, if that's the one you found broken, replace it and you should be back in business. As for the brakes, you've probably got leaky bull pinion seals and oil is getting into the brakes. That's pretty common and easy to fix. The trouble with the hydraulic valves is probably just in the linkage.

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becker

01-15-2005 06:50:15




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 Re: 1066 info? in reply to K.B.-826, 01-14-2005 20:04:38  
Back pressure I'm referring to is actually just on the foot. There's no slippage or anything and only yesterday found the broken spring. Leaking seals make sense as brakes get better when applied with travel and poor manual brakes as well. I assume you get to the seal through the brake housing which I will do while I have the cab rolled back. HP numbers make sense. Thanks for input.

Dorn



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Allan in NE

01-15-2005 06:10:07




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 Re: 1066 info? in reply to K.B.-826, 01-14-2005 20:04:38  
Yepper,

I think you're right. I knew the 986 went to the 436 engine, but I always thought that the 1066 stayed with the turboed 414.

Allan



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