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Super A torque pattern

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Greg-N-CA

12-26-2004 08:32:40




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Can anyone help me with the head torque pattern on a Super A? I've packed my manuals away during our remodel and I would like to start the tear down on the engine today. I've always removed engine heads in the reverse order of the factory pattern to prevent warping during dissassemble. Attached is a photo of the tractor as found this summer.

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Jimmy King

12-27-2004 04:16:24




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 Re: Super A torque pattern in reply to Greg-N-CA, 12-26-2004 08:32:40  
I have always been told to start in the middle and work in a circle Snug first then 5# at a time



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El Toro

12-26-2004 13:09:04




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 Re: Super A torque pattern in reply to Greg-N-CA, 12-26-2004 08:32:40  
Hi Greg, That criss-crossing pattern should look something like this:

1 3 5 7 9

10 8 6 4 2

Hope this helps you. Your A looks a lot nicer that the one I restored. The fenders, seat, tires, rims were all shot on mine and the engine was stuck. Hal
plus the steering wheel. I'm not sure these numbers will remain where I placed them, I had the 1 over the 4 and the 3 over the 2.

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Greg-N-CA

12-26-2004 15:36:52




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 Re: Super A torque pattern in reply to El Toro, 12-26-2004 13:09:04  
Hi Hal, Thanks for the information. Yes, I was lucky with the condition of this tractor. I was able to put in a parade this past summer with just a carb and water pump kit. It smokes like a steam engine, so down she comes this winter.



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El Toro

12-26-2004 09:55:46




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 Re: Super A torque pattern in reply to Greg-N-CA, 12-26-2004 08:32:40  
Hi Greg, To torque down your head bolts start in the center of the head and tighten the bolts with a speed handle or ratchet until the nuts or bolts are snug. Use a criss-crossing pattern as you tighten in both directions. Then use your torque wrench to tighten using the same criss-crossing
pattern. Start at 20-ftlbs and use 15 0r 20lb increments until you reach the max torque. That max torque is 65-ftlbs in my manual and that is what I used when I restored my A. I never had any leakage problems. I did retorque after heating up the engine. Some manuals say 80-ftlbs
for those heads.

When I removed a head I always used a breakdown bar to back off the nuts or bolts slightly, then I would use a ratchet to loosen
in increments until the head bolts or nuts were free. I usually used an electric impact wrench
to spin them off.

Check the head with a straight edge to see if you have any warpage. A machine shop usually does this and will magna-flux for cracks.
If the exhaust valves are thin I would replace them and if the seats are deep, I 'd have new valve seats installed and guides too. Hal

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