Purchasing my first antique tractor

Thanks - I look forward to your replies.

Tom in PA

The very first vehicle my kids learned to drive was skid steer loader. With ROPS protection and seat belt, much safer than SA, 130, 300 or 560. At 12 years of age my daughter actually did jobs for people, with skid loader earning a bit of money for herself. Actually she took it further than a bit. At one point I suggested she might consider buying her own loader rather than wearing dad's out completely.

On the mower tractor, I have a Super A with a 5 foot Woods belly mower. Have been a Farmall man all my life. I like the Woods mower very much, and of course you would never get me to part with that Super A. However I the height of Super A is not the most desirable for mowing. I have had to trim some branches from ornamental trees and a hedge row, that I really didn't want to do. Trees give you great wind break as well as privacy. Just maybe, an 8N or Fergie would be more practical for me. I kept a hand push mower for mowing under those trees, haha that didn't last long.

A skid steer is a better loader. A commercial mower (like a Ferris) is a much better finish mower. But for jobs you don't do all the time the Farmall is a lot more fun.

I would go ahead and get a H or M with a loader, It will be very handy during construction and after. I have a 200 with a blade and a platform on the two point hitch and I use it a lot to move snow or to carry things around. If I had a loader that would be even better. There is way to much mowing to be done if you put most of that 5 acres to grass, I would get a used commercial mower for that.

Frank

If I were starting out on 5 acres of lot with no buildings and no landscaping, the very first item I would buy is a new or near new 45 hp skid steer loader. If your doing much of the work yourself, it will pay for itself. If you happen to have the bonus of being around neighbors, who don't have one, you will find yourself draging in good pocket money on the side.

When you get this project well on the way then buy your mower tractor, SA, 8N, etc. Either one will also do good on a snow blade. Then heck you wont even need a snow blade, as you will not be willing to part with the skid loader.

I had a Farmall 560 wf with IH 2000 loader on farm. I needed a second loader for small confined areas. I bought a new 45 hp skid loader, two years later I bought a 2nd skid loader to replace 560. Yes the 2000 loader was taken off the 560 forever and 560 went back to doing what it does best, drawbar work.

This is an IH board - you are going to get mostly IH recommendations. I also have a WD Allis Chalmers with live power, live hydraulics, and a 3-point. You can purchase a WD series (30 to 40 HP range) tractor cheaper than one of the Fords and in the same price range as a H or an M.

Having said all of that a Super C would be nice.

I have an M under a loader. I have a wide front, live hydraulics, and power steering on it. In my opinion this is the only way to go on an M. As one other post suggests the newer IH models with the TA, have live PTO and live hydraulics, making them a good logical choice if you aren’t biased towards the M appearance and style.

Just my 2 cents…

I think the M is a fine tractor. I never understood why Ford put the left wheel brake next to the clutch. Yeah works great if your stuck and are trying to get out but when you want to stop the tractor you push in the clutch and then oh rats you only have one brake to work with. Pain if you ask me.

Roll over? If you watch TV maybe you have seen the commercials for the Pontiac Grand Am or Grand Prix. "Wider is better". However looking at this from an engineering aspect a low COG (center of gravity) is also better. Hence grand prix cars are super low and wide for high G in the corners. Same principle applies to tractors. The lower the COG and wider it is the better on hilly terrain.

Implements? Should be readily available for both.

And last but not least I am partial to IH so i would get one of those. And not that it is any of my buisness but a Farmall M is much to big for a 6 year old. Give him/her at least 6 or 7 more years before they even think about trying it.

Again JMO

Personally I'd move up a couple years and get a 300 - 350 (utility or row crop) or a 400 - 450. You gain live hydraulics and live PTO along with the live two point set up. Makes using the tractor much easier and you still retain that "old style" look. They can also be purchased for a price close to the H or M.

I think for what you are wanting to accomplish that you'd be happier with a lower center of gravity type utility tractor.

Don't know if that little 8N is horse enough for what you want to do, but there are a little bigger sized U-type tractors around all over the place just waiting for a new home.

Find one with live power and one that is equipped with power steering. It will just make your tractor experience more enjoyable.

Be careful with those youngsters around the tractor too! These things are fun, but they can kill, wound or mame before you know what happend.

Allan

The M model I looked at yesterday had two hydraulic style fittings coming out of one side of the belly and one coming out the other. Can someone explain how these setups work please?

Also - I looked at a Farmall 450 gas. It had the TA and I think it had a 3pt hitch too. The only thing that concerns me about that is the TA. I've been lurking around on the board here and reading about TA's on the net. I understand that if you operate them improperly you can be talking about a serious amount of cash... how exactly do these work?

I really like the M w/ the wide frt, but I don't want to have to spend a ton of cash to make it do what I need...

We were talking about the scrape blade. One of you mentioned there are no control arms on the M. If I purchased the 3pt conversion there would be - correct? But then I'm also going to need the live hydraulic pump and related servos/lines so that I have both lift and downforce - right?

You guys are right - I am asking a bunch of questions, I just want to make sure that I am doing the right thing here.

Since I bought this land I have to sell a 1979 IH Scout II that I spent 3 years doing a body-off-frame restoration on - I'm going to miss it for sure, and am looking for a nice RED tractor to take its place. I realize the Ford may be more practical, but it isn't an IH. I know in this forum you gentlemen understand that.

I purchased my 400 with a bad TA and I replaced it with a rebuilt unit my self. cost about $500 when it was all said and done. Requires a 3 part tractor split.

If you have some one else do it figure around $1500 or so.

Or just drive the tractor on the high side for ever and never worry about it.

Bad TA's are great for the buyer and bad for the seller. You can really chop the price down when buying and not have any less of a tractor.

Pretty versatile tractors....I screwed up and didn't buy the 300 I saw with a nice loader, backblade, full weights and new rubber....mostly restored for $3000. I kick myself every day for that. Good luck and stay loyal to RED!

Thanks Tom