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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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welding Super M exhaust manifold

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jnewark

11-19-2004 09:46:05




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greetings, I was the guy a few days ago who wanted to know about removing the m radiator, with the radior in the shop I started to look over the rest of the M, found a crack on the exhaust manifold, being handy with a welder I plan to weld it, my plan of attack is to drill a small hole at the ends of the crack, vee grove the crack, run the tractor to preheat, weld, and continue the run for a post heat, does this sound like a plan? any additional suggestions would be welcome.
thanks in advance
jack

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Pete L

11-23-2004 14:36:54




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to jnewark, 11-19-2004 09:46:05  
I use my gas grill for heating up things that need to be heated. Leave it on high for a half hour or so with the lid down and you'll be suprised how hot it will get your parts. Use this also to heat rusty parts so they'll disassemble easier. Put the part on the grill, run it on high for an hour or so, shut it off, leave it closed, and check it in the morning.

Also, be carefull on cast that is supposed to get hot. Welding with a similar metal (gas cast iron welding rod) will expand nearly the same when the manifold gets hot again. Not sure about the nickel rods though.

Good luck..... ....

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Leland

11-20-2004 15:50:09




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to jnewark, 11-19-2004 09:46:05  
New ones are pretty cheap at www.sloansex.com



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David in UT

11-19-2004 21:06:40




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to jnewark, 11-19-2004 09:46:05  
Jack,

I recently welded a steering bracket on an M and a another small front end piece on an A. Those were my first attempts at cast stick welding (I spend most of my welding time using a pulsed MIG machine), but they seem to have worked just dandy.

I know there are a couple of schools of thought on how to weld cast, i.e. preheat or not, but I elected not to preheat. There wasn't a good theoretical reason behind this...it was mostly because I don't have a oxyaxl setup and I couldn't get away with baking the part in the kitchen oven ;-). In any case, I took it nice and slow...laid down about 3/4" of bead, then I went off and did something else for 5 or 10 minutes. Came back, laid another 3/4" of bead as far away from the previous one as possible, and so on. Just tried to keep the part as cool as possible.

Also, when I bought my cast rod, the welding shop guys suggested a more spendy rod...it's UTP Econocast 99. I'm using 1/8" rod, and I got 1 lb. (about 20 sticks) for something like $30. Since it's the only one I've used, I can't compare it, but it seems to have worked well.

Finally, here's a link to an article by Lincoln Electric I've found useful.

Have fun, and feel free to ping me for pics or anything else that might be helpful.

- David

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One other thought...

11-19-2004 21:15:55




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to David in UT, 11-19-2004 21:06:40  
I forgot that I also made sure to do lots of tapping with the chipper hammer on each bead to releave stresses as I moved along.



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george md

11-19-2004 18:49:58




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to jnewark, 11-19-2004 09:46:05  
Jack, For successfull manifold repair , forget
the nickle rod and get some oxy/acet cast iron
rod and flux . I do quite a bit of manifold repair and some are quite far gone. Link below
to some repaired manifolds .

george



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gusc

11-19-2004 23:21:15




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to george md, 11-19-2004 18:49:58  
Looked at your photos, very impressive work. You didn't repair that manifold you remanufactured it! The stud removal part was really impressive, I would rather eat mud than remove studs. That boring bit must be really hard. How did you avoid damaging the threads?

Unfortunately we amateurs don't have that kind of equipment.

Why do you prefer gas over stick welding? I have gas and am better at it than the stick but thought gas would require too much heat and warp everything.

I welded short lengths at a time with the stick like another poster did, but with gas it would seem that you wouldn't want to do that because it takes so much gas and time to reheat.

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george md

11-20-2004 11:37:09




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to gusc, 11-19-2004 23:21:15  
gusc, Thank you very much for the compliments. After a day of fixing everybodies disasters ,it's
somewhat relaxing to settle down and do some mani-
fold repair (always do it late nite after the phones quit). Studs are usually not real hard ,a HS steel
end mill will cut most, once in a while you may
need a carbide cutter. If the mill is near tap
drill size and you center well , the only thing left in the hole is the thread and they will come out
like a heli-coil. Taking out broken studs and bolts
isn't too bad , but when some clown tries to do
it and breaks a drill in the hole then breaks an
easy out (really called hard outs )in the hole
on top of the drill, then the fun begins. That's
when I wish I had an EDM machine.

Oxy/acet cast iron is the best repair for cast
followed by brazing and the absolute worst choice
is arc welding. Any arc rod that will weld cast iron will have a hi- nickle content , nickle is
about twice the tensil strength of cast and most
important it has a much greater rate of expansion
and contraction than cast . Cast is not ductile
and can not give a little as the weld cools and
that when the cracks start.It doesn't matter how
many chipping hammers you wear out peening the
arc weld bead , when you start the engine the
manifold and weld change size again and do it
every time you start and stop.Eventually the weld pulls away from the base material. For
manifolds heat a large section or all to a dull
red before welding , use reasonable amount of flux with the cast iron rod and maintain heat
for a while after welding.

Below is a link to how to weld cast , there are several pages , read all of them.

george

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gusc

11-21-2004 21:15:14




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to george md, 11-20-2004 11:37:09  
George,

I guess I thought the hardness of studs made them break but now that I give it more thought it is probably the combination of heating and cooling and the rusted-on nuts that are the real problem.

I quit using hardened extractors years ago, I found out the hard way!

How do you heat manifolds? Is it ok to heat them with an electric arc torch?

I have read somewhere that one should never attempt to weld a British car exh manifold. Have you heard of this?

I haven't read the link article but will soon.

Thanks again,

Gus

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george md

11-22-2004 21:13:02




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to gusc, 11-21-2004 21:15:14  
gusc, As for easy outs, I use the square ones from hanson or ACE .Never use a spiral one .

I heat large areas or castings with a large
propane torch (looks like a weed burner-probably
is ). Build a fire brick oven around what you are
heating with a hole in it to put to propane torch
thru. Partially cover the top with brick leaving
enough room to access the area to weld , When done
post heat and I use an asbestos blanket to cover
the brick while cooling. Takes about 10 to 12 hrs to cool to touch.

I had an alfa-rameo (spelling) manifold to weld about a month ago, seemed like it was ceramic
coated , had to grind off the coating then weld.
The cast was miserable to weld ,but it does weld. Email is in the web site .

george

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gusc

11-19-2004 16:24:28




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to jnewark, 11-19-2004 09:46:05  
Never tried it on a manifold but I welded a cast rear spring bracket on my GMC one ton with a cast iron stick welding rod and it is still holding after about 20 years.

I had never tried to weld cast iron before and it worked so well I was really surprised. It probably has more steel in it than exhaust manifolds but I don't know for sure.

The bracket isn't very big so heating was not the problem it would be with a manifold.

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Andy Martin

11-19-2004 14:27:08




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to jnewark, 11-19-2004 09:46:05  
My experience has been a new $200 manifold is a good buy. After repairs, I've had old ones crack somewhere else or on welding you find it was cracked because it is thin.

Let us know how it turns out.



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captaink

11-19-2004 10:02:29




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to jnewark, 11-19-2004 09:46:05  
I would suggest using nickel rod when you weld, that way if you have to file or grind the weld it will be a lot easier. Even though you are running the tractor and keeping the manifold warm (which sounds like a good idea), compared to the temperatures at the point of the weld (I’m presuming here a stick electric welder) the rest of the manifold will be cold. I would recommend following standard welding procedure for cast, short welding time, a lot of peening, and let it cool back to running temp before going on. I would think that running the tractor definitely is a good idea and should shorten the time it will take to weld.

Just my 2 cents…

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dhermesc

11-19-2004 09:53:24




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 Re: welding Super M exhaust manifold in reply to jnewark, 11-19-2004 09:46:05  
Good luck. Never had any luck attempting to patch exhaust manifolds by brazing. The constant heating up and cooling down of the casting makes it extremely hard to make any kind of decent repair last beyond a week or two. It can be done, but I just haven't had any success (personal failing?).



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