BN cooling problems - Part II

Since this forum doesn't sort threads by time, I have to make another thread, otherwise no one will see my replies.

Thank you to everyone that replied.

What should I do?

Everything was working fine in July. At the beginning of August, I restored as much as I could, and painted everything. And just for the record, no, I didn't paint the radiator, so if you're thinking I clogged the fins with paint, you're wrong. ;)

As I've stated in my previous posts, I can get full flow through the block and the radiator with a garden hose. Some people have suggested a garden hose isn't the same as a 2" hose, but I tend to think with the quantity of flow I'm seeing, that the intake should be at least warm. But as it is, the intake is as cold as the ambient temperature, and the outlet is too hot to touch, with steam everywhere.

I don't know what to do - there appears to be enough flow to prevent the block from getting to be burning-hot, especially when the ambient temperature is only 45F, but it just isn't circulating.

I really don’t know what more to do…should I get a water pump?

Thanks.

ffolkes

As I said in my other post, it seems to be working fine now.

Thanks for everyone's help.

ffolkes

Before I resigned myself to taking the radiator to a repair shop, I wanted to try flushing it again.

I took the radiator out yet again, plugged up the block intake, filled the block with water, and let it all gush out. I repeated this process about 10 times. Then I did the same for the radiator. Put it all back together, and it seems to be working fine... Nothing noticeable came out during the flushes besides rusty water though.

I'm going to keep an eye on it from now on, and if it starts to steam/boil again, I’ll have the radiator professionally cleaned.

Thanks again for all the replies.

ffolkes

Is there supposed to be one on a passive cooling system like this? What would be the point? There's an overflow tube, so there could never be pressure...

Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks.

ffolkes

After about 10 minutes, the top tank will start to boil, and the top 1/4 of the radiator will be hot. The bottom 3/4 is ice cold.

Will an automotive radiator speciality shop be able to deal with this type of radiator? I know automotive radiators are usually under pressure, unlike this, which is passive.

Thanks.

ffolkes

When I read posts in this forum, my decision to reply is based on one thing - avoiding excess posts, for the sake of others. When I read your other post in this thread, I mentally answered your questions, and I felt the results didn't warrant cluttering the forum with a reply just yet.

To answer your questions, just for the sake of answering them:

1. Yes I did install a new head gasket
2. The tractor has been in my family since it was bought new, around 1947.
3. It definitely didn't overheat like this.
4. Nothing was changed with the cooling system since 1991, so for those 13 or so years, it worked fine under any load, at any ambient temperature.

Since none of this information would have changed your recommended course of action, I figured I'd investigate further on my own before I nagged the forum with another post.

I highly value your opinion and input, since I consider you to be among the group of “Farmall Geniuses” on this forum. I would never intentionally ignore anything you say, in fact, it’s quite the opposite. When I see a reply from you, I get excited because I know it will contain useful information related to what my original post was about.

So please don’t take any offence at this reply.

Thank you very much for always answering my posts, and volunteering to help. The world really would be a much better place if more people were as eager to help as you!

ffolkes