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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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SMTA Clutch

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FM

10-21-2004 19:24:05




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Looks like I might have to put a clutch in my TA. I tried to plow with it the other day(real dry, hard plowing) and in 1st gear it slipped with TA both ahead and back. I am going to have my uncle look at it and make sure it is adjusted right but I am pretty sure it wont be that simple. I think I have a leaking rear main seal(I changed the motor oil and I've noticed that since it has been smoking more--I think the PO had something other than 30 wt in it.). Anyway, I think the clutch job shouldn't be too bad, but I am looking at Bates website and they list 4 different clutch disks for this thing! I am somewhat familiar with the "button clutch". I do a little bit of tractor pulling and my M is believed to have a button clutch in it. It is really hard to feather sometimes and the motor was slightly built in it we think. I really don't like not being able to feather a clutch good. However, as I said, I pull some and want a clutch to hold. My SMTA isn't built by any standards, in fact I would call it weak. However, the plan is to eventually get it to where it will give a respectable showing at the pulls. So.... Which clutch to get? From the looks of it, they have a "stock" full disk, a "standard duty" 4 button, a HD 4 button, and a HD 6 button. Any hints on how to choose? Price varys from $90-135 so I will spend more to get the heavier clutch if I need it. On a seperate note, I have an uncle looking for a 150 hp motor to go into a 400. Anyone know of someone who'd either sell him a crate motor or build his up?? Thanks!! Mike

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captaink

10-22-2004 07:25:47




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 Re: SMTA Clutch in reply to FM, 10-21-2004 19:24:05  
My 2 cents. I have nothing good to say about a button clutch. In my opinion they don’t even make good scrap metal! I have had experience with them in a 560, 966, and 1486 tractors. They all shifted hard and were almost impossible to get moving smoothly. That being said here’s the technical side as to the way I feel.

First, they tear up flywheels and pressure plates left right and sideways because they are or at least were usually made of such a hard material. Every time they slip they remove metal from either or both. I will guarantee that if you ever have to replace the clutch disk you will have to either resurface the flywheel or even replace it because it will be worn that bad. Pressure plate is an automatic replace with the disc.

Second, they get harder and harder to feather and get into gear as they wear and chew up the flywheel and pressure plate (see first above). This is because they start to wear a curve on both the inner and outer radii of the clutch. This tends to be accentuated if the clutch and flywheel heat up. One theory is that the disc will actually stick to one or both making it almost impossible to get the transmission to stop. Hmm might be one reason IH started putting a brake in the transmissions later on. Also leads to them being more jumpy when engaging.

Third, the button clutches have a habit of breaking the shock absorbing springs in the hub of the disk resulting in premature failure of the clutch, leading to first above. I believe this is due mostly because of second above.

I think by now you have the picture. I hated them so bad, my solution on my hybrid 966 (436 crank & pistons, 1466 flywheel, clutch, & blower, and 1066 air cleaner & hood) was to have a local clutch manufacturer (now out of business) put together a fiber button clutch that had enough buttons on it that it was practically a full faced fiber clutch. Made that 966 a fantastic loader tractor (for a non-hydro) lots of lug (thanks to the 436 crank & flywheel) smooth shifting (thanks to the fiber clutch) and pretty economical (thanks to the blower). Now the disclaimer…technology moves on, and there may have been improvements the past 5 years that I’m not aware of. If so, please take them into consideration also when you make your decision.

Main thing on a clutch is make sure the flywheel and pressure plate are flat, the clutch springs are all the proper strength (might consider heavier ones if slipping is a concern), and that the fingers on the pressure plate are set correctly allowing proper clutch adjustment. I believe that a full faced fiber clutch set up right will live up to your expectations.

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Hayfarmer

10-21-2004 21:27:46




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 Re: SMTA Clutch in reply to FM, 10-21-2004 19:24:05  
A couple years ago I split my SMTA to fix the TA. I got a new clutch disc at the time and it was the 4 button type, the guys at IH said these were harder to feather than the standard disc but less apt to slip. When I put the tractor back together the clutch wouldn"t release, must have been mis adjusted pressure plate, so I put the other disc back in. This last winter I overhauled the engine and got a new pressure plate as the center that drives the PTO was nearly gone on the old one, also put in the 4 button clutch. At first it seemed really jumpy but I got used to it and it works great. Have mainly used it on PTO and not to pull a load so not sure how it would work for that. You can still engage it "lightly" when you get used to it.

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