1952 Super C Starting Problem

i had the starter out several times and to a starter shop before a young fella found the problem.

if that starter is built the same as an H starter, there soldered lugs inside, i think for the brushs. what happened to mine was during cranking over a long period, the lugs would get hot and the solder would run or boil out.
this had happened before i got the tractor.

these lugs might look good but sometimes arent.
even with a new battery it would crank slow to the point where it would wear the battery down.

also the starter would spin just fine on the bench.but under load it would spin slow.
just my 2 cents worth. good luck and post if you find the problem.

J in Pa

If this seems to help, check the following mating surfaces: between the end cap and the field housing (middle part of the starter), between the field housing and the drive housing (end that attaches to the block), and between the drive housing and the block. Each surface must make good contact in order for a good ground. If all are polished clean and the bushings are good, check the field coils with an ohm meter and make sure that there is not a current leak from the coils to a ground. You should have practically an infinitive amount of resistance with the starter disassembled between the terminal at the top of the starter and the field housing. If not, then you will need to replace the field coils or possibly the whole starter.

Another possibility is that the armature (center shaft with the drive gear) is dragging on the field coil mounts. With the starter apart, look for rubbing marks on the center metal part of the armature. If you see some, then the bushings need to be replaced at a bare minimum, possibly the whole starter.

I know there is a lot of info here, if you have questions, post back.

With that said, a “slow crank” condition can only be caused by the following: 1 - Weak, partially discharged or undersized battery. 2 - Excessive resistance in the power circuit (undersized cables, corroded terminals, worn starter switch), or 3 – A weak starter.

#1 and #2 are pretty easy to diagnose and correct. #3 however may be more difficult.

If you are so inclined, open the starter up and check for a broken or stuck brush, a bad solder connection where the power terminal connects to the field winding straps (this connection fails frequently…), or an open circuit in one of the field windings.

Otherwise take the starter to a different starter shop. (Could be the first shop “tested” the starter simply by applying power to it on the bench - it can spin fine under no load but still be weak).

Another way to test the starter: If you can borrow a starter off another C (or an A, H or M), install it temporarily on your C and see if the cranking problem goes away.

Hope something here helps!