Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
:

Generator question

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
ffolkes

09-12-2004 07:26:46




Report to Moderator

Hello-

I'm trying to figure out how to correctly wire my BN since the generator was rebuilt, and appears to have been rewired.

First, I don't understand what the relay box does...regulation to prevent overcharging of the battery I'm assuming? But then what's the point of having a H/L switch on the "instrument panel?"

The generator field terminal is connected to a resistor on the field terminal of the relay box. The A terminal of the generator is connected to a terminal underneath the relay box. Next to the field terminal on the relay box are two other terminals that don't have any markings on them. These two terminals were connected to wires that went into the old cloth harness.

As I recall, when the generator was rebuilt a few years ago, it was hooked up in such a way that the switch on the "instrument panel" was excluded from the charging circuit as a quick fix.

I see what should be connected to what, but the "new" relay is confusing me since it has (with pulley facing left) three terminals on the edge, one of which has a resistor on it, and one terminal in the center of the bottom of the box.

The BN manual says to connect the field terminal of the generator directly to the instrument panel switch.

Thanks.

ffolkes

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
gene b

09-12-2004 15:57:30




Report to Moderator
 Re: Generator question in reply to ffolkes, 09-12-2004 07:26:46  
IF YOU HAVE A CUTOUT and it sounds like you do your normall output is determined by the adjustable third brush. Loosen up the slotted screw on the end of the gen and then remove the cover and check the spacing between the two brushes should not be any closer than 3.2 bars and by spacing them farther apart will reduce the current. If you dont have an original type generator and cutout this will not work. You mite have a different generator and mite need a regulator. If you are running a mag you do not need verry much amps as they do not use the battery for current. There are many tractors running around that over the years have had something changed and can cause the current owners lots of gray hairs I restore A and Bs and make them all original it is easier if one knows the correct procedure hope this helps.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
ffolkes

09-12-2004 07:40:55




Report to Moderator
 Re: Generator question in reply to ffolkes, 09-12-2004 07:26:46  
I should have searched before a posted. ;)

I saw a post that said a regulator has 3 or 4 terminals, and more than one coil inside. I took the cover off, and it has two coils, and 4 terminals. So I guess that means it's a regulator, which would explain why the switch was exluded from the charging circuit. Since the generator is regulating itself, shouldn't there just be one connection that goes to the negative terminal (since it's positive ground) of the battery then? Which of the two unused terminals should I use?

I want the ammeter to work, so should I connect one side of the meter to the starter lug (which is just an easier way to get to the negative terminal of the battery) and connect the other side of the meter to the output of the generator? Obviously the headlights need power via the switch, so is it safe to connect the switch to the terminal of the ammeter that has the generator output, as is shown in the manual?

Thanks.

ffolkes

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
ffolkes

09-12-2004 08:17:03




Report to Moderator
 What is the L terminal? in reply to ffolkes, 09-12-2004 07:40:55  
When I used my Dremel to polish the terminals, I saw that they were very lightly stamped "BAT" and "L". The rust/slight corrosion had hidden that.

The BAT terminal should go to the ammeter, and the other side of the ammeter should have the connection to the battery.

What is the "L" terminal for?

Thanks.

ffolkes



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
lee

09-12-2004 09:37:58




Report to Moderator
 Re: What is the L terminal? in reply to ffolkes, 09-12-2004 08:17:03  
The L termiinal is hot at all times as it is connected to the bat terminal thru a heavy copper coil surrounding the field relay coil internal to the regulator. If you have lights on the tractor you would feed your light switch from the L terminal. If you have no lights you don't use this terminal. If you have lights connected thru the L terminal the generator will immediately kick up the charge a notch when you turn on the lights. Some of the older regulators did not have an L terminal. In that case the light switch feed came from the ammeter. If you feed the light switch thru the ammeter it will still work but you are not using the extra feature of the L terminal described above.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
ffolkes

09-12-2004 09:50:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: What is the L terminal? in reply to lee, 09-12-2004 09:37:58  
Thank you.

Since the ammeter is showing the charge being put out by the generator, shouldn't the needle change? Before I started this restoration project, the needle would always be at 10 (less if the throttle was lower), even with a new fully charged battery and 3 hours of high throttle. Shouldn't the regulator have reduced the current going to the battery, and thus made the ammeter show a lower charge instead of always being 10 amps?

Thanks.

ffolkes

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
John M

09-12-2004 11:05:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: What is the L terminal? in reply to ffolkes, 09-12-2004 09:50:29  
Thats what I thought too.But the only tractor that I have that accually redices the charge the longer it runs is my Cub,and it will even go as far as dropping down about 2 volts DISCHARGE if you run it long enough.The battery has never gone dead in it.Both my 41 Ms puts out about 10 -12 at full throttle and if I run them all day like that itll still show the same thing at the end of the day,both my Ms do that,both have new wiring and newly rebuilt generators and new regulators.Fortunaely I dont run them long enoguh to do any damage to the batteries,but wish I could get them to charege right.My 40 working M has an alternator on it,it drops right,as does my I-4 with an alternator.Guy at the alternator shop says he can do up a generator to work like an alternator,no need for a regulator,I may do that one of these days.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
lee

09-12-2004 14:24:11




Report to Moderator
 Re: What is the L terminal? in reply to John M, 09-12-2004 11:05:20  
The world is not a perfect place. The generator with it's commutator and carbon brushes, the regulator with it's electromechanical contacts, coils, and mechanical adjustments, both adversely affected by moisture, dirt, and intermittent use, are here to insure we don't forget it. One thing most people don't realize about generators and regulators is that no two them are exactly the same. They really need to be adjusted to one another on a bench tester whenever one or the other is swapped out. Another problem is people try to adjust these to make them work but don't really have a clue what they are doing. People sand or file on the contacts to clean them, a really bad idea as once you remove the plating they are much more vulnerable to moisture and corrosion and the calibration is affected.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
lee

09-12-2004 10:37:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: What is the L terminal? in reply to ffolkes, 09-12-2004 09:50:29  
Yes, it should cut back as it reaches full charge
but let's not worry about what it used to do.
Sounds like ancient history with this tractor not running in some time. Get it wired and running and see what it is doing now. Then go from there. Is the regulator new? Has anyone been inside tweaking it. How about the gen? When was it re-built? If you've got an extra $25 take the gen/reg to a Starter/Generator/Alternator repair shop and have them clean/inspect and adjust it on a bench tester.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy