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SMTA brakes

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Don

08-26-2004 16:39:21




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Fixing brakes on SMTA that haven't been worked on for years, or worked for years I might add. Where do I start? Do I get the new discs from IH and the other parts also? Thanks
Don in Indiana




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john d

08-26-2004 22:06:41




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 Re: SMTA brakes in reply to Don, 08-26-2004 16:39:21  
Good advice from previous posters, Don. I would add that water must be kept out of these, or you won't have brakes long after you fix them. The rubber boot for the actuator rod should be replaced unless it looks and feels nearly new. When you're done, put some paint on the outside of the castings to keep moisture from seeping in there the first time it has to be out in the rain.



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gunslinger

08-26-2004 21:11:22




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 Re: SMTA brakes in reply to Don, 08-26-2004 16:39:21  
Check the actuater balls,make sure they are perfectly round,not pitted from rust,and no chrome coming off.Any of these problems will cause the balls to stick.Check actuater plates,pay close attention to the ramps that the balls run in.These have to be smooth with no ridges,rough spots,pitting or the like.Some of these parts may no longer be available new from the dealer.



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CNKS

08-26-2004 18:12:22




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 Re: SMTA brakes in reply to Don, 08-26-2004 16:39:21  
It is very likely that you need new seals for the shafts, and new disks. Case-IH disks are $5-6 apiece higher than aftermarket (just bought some this week for a 460). You need four. The machined surfaces the disks run on will be oily, rusty, or both. Just clean them up and use emory cloth (I used sandpaper). Clean the balls and ramps. You could need new springs. If nothing is broken you will probably have good brakes. All this is self explanatory once you get inside. Just repair one at a time -- if your're like me you'll forget how they go back together.

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BIG JOHN

08-26-2004 18:01:43




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 Re: SMTA brakes in reply to Don, 08-26-2004 16:39:21  
Very hard to tell what you need without taking them apart. What you need for one side might not be what you need for the other side.

I recientlly went thru the ones on my SMTA. All they needed was a good cleaning and deglazing of the disc"s and the aucuaters needed a good derusting and polishing. No parts needed, just elbow grease.

GOOD LUCK



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r4etired

08-27-2004 19:07:23




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 Re: SMTA brakes in reply to BIG JOHN, 08-26-2004 18:01:43  
I have my discs redone at our local brake shop. they use a softer lining material.they work great. Ih 5 years agohad a good quality disc,they were about 9 bucks higher than aftermarket. They changed vendors now they are a litle cheaper than after market.the linings are rock hard and do not work well.[my opinion] also if you have a really wore brake take the cover to a machine shop have 20 thousands milled off it. really tightens them up

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superih

08-27-2004 08:46:23




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 Re: SMTA brakes in reply to BIG JOHN, 08-26-2004 18:01:43  
First make sure that you don"t have any oil leaking by the pinion seals. I usually romove the inner brake surface, IH calls it the pinion bearing retainer, (it pulls right out) and replace the oil seal and the O-Ring that seals the inner surface against the transmission. Buy new balls and springs. Then sandblast everything (the actuators, the brake drums, the pins that actuate the actuators, and all wear pads). When assembling the brakes I use either a heavy grease or antisieze on all moving surfaces (actuator pins, the balls and all wear surfaces, by this I mean where the actuators rub against the brake housing. If your brake discs are not wore out (the wear indicator grooves are still in the brake pads) you can sandblast the pads also to remove the glazing. Since you have the pinion bearing retainer out pull the pinion shaft out and file down any grooves that are in the pinion splines where the break pads have been riding for years. The pads must move freely on the splines. Then wire wheel the splines down so that everything is really smooth. This is done to ensure that everthing slides easily on the splines. Clean the pinion shaft up in the parts washer and install back into the tractor. Make sure to lightly oil the splines and the oil seal so that when you put the bearing retainer back on that you don"t tear the oil seal. I have done several tractors like this and the brakes work awsume. Good luck.

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