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Gas tank valve

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Brian

03-19-2004 19:44:24

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Where would I get a new seal for my gas tank valve on my WD6 or what would I use to make one?
Can't get the old one to screw out without breaking the whole bottom out but can get the valve itself apart. Tried a little o-ring but doesn't work.

Thanks
Brian

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Bob in SE Nebraska

03-20-2004 14:41:40

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Re: Gas tank valve in reply to Brian, 03-19-2004 19:44:24

I used some valve packing rope (more like a string) and it worked very well. The packing has graphite in it so the handle will turn easily but it stops the leak ok. If they still sell the teflon packing at hardware stores it would even work better. It just looks like a heavy cord and is white in color. Good stuff if you can find it.

Bob

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Dave in CT

03-20-2004 07:32:07

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Re: Gas tank valve in reply to Brian, 03-19-2004 19:44:24

Is the leak down the line into the carb or out the back of the valve where the bent handle is? I'm assuming your valve is like the valve/sediment bowl combination on my H. I'm a neophite but I ran into a similar problem. I had a leak into the carb even after I'd screwed shut the valve. When I'd come out in the morning I had a puddle from where the gas had dripped out the intake port of the carb (air cleaner hose was detatched). I went so far as to order a new valve/sediment bowl replacement as everyone told me there was no replaceable seat for the valve - when it wore out, one just had to replace it. They also said a common failing was when people couldn't get the valve to shut, they would screw it down tight with a pair of pliers and that would make it leak all the more.

Well, while I was waiting for the valve to get here, I administered some other treatment - namely cleaning out the entire fuel line, sediment bowl screen and (I think most importantly) rust in the gas tank. I swiped a big magnet around the inside of the gas tank and, when I had it pretty well cleaned up, I let some gas flow freely through the open valve/sediment bowl port. Ever since then, the valve has been shutting off nicely - I don't get any drips. I think there must've been a bit of rust preventing the needle from seating and closing the line. I was lucky enough not to have one someone had cranked down with pliers. I left the magnet in the tank by the outlet port and it's still catching some rust.

Hope this helps. Let us know what fixes it or if you just needed a new valve.

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Brian

03-20-2004 12:12:53

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Re: Re: Gas tank valve in reply to Dave in CT, 03-20-2004 07:32:07

Mine doesn't have a sediment bowl just a valve in the bottom of the tank, then a line to the carb. Not sure what you would call this valve. Screws in to the bottom of the tank. The line hooks to the side. The valve turns up into the bottom like a needle valve. Around the packing nut is where it leaks.

Brian

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Dakota Jim

03-20-2004 22:23:39

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Re: Re: Re: Gas tank valve in reply to Brian, 03-20-2004 12:12:53

What you need is the graphite packing like Bob mentioned.

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Brian

03-21-2004 08:39:57

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Gas tank valve in reply to Dakota Jim, 03-20-2004 22:23:39

I was trying to hard to buy a special seal or fiber washer or something. I will try grapite packing. Thanks for the help

Brian

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Dave in CT

03-21-2004 09:23:46

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gas tank valve in reply to Brian, 03-21-2004 08:39:57

Just another thought. I've seen some other posts on this topic where folks talk about getting a neoprene washer or "O" ring instead of the packing and that seemed to cure that type of leak. One fellow also passed on a quick fix that I think came from an IH mechanic - wrap the handle with waxed dental floss and then tighten the packing nut over that. I'd be curious to know what the fix turns out to be.

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