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I bit the big one and got a Saginaw 3 pt

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Jonesy

03-10-2004 18:25:40

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Hey I gotta say im impressed so far. I ordered it Monday and it arrived here in TX today!! Im going to put this thing on a Super M with live Hyd. I plan on useing the down pressure connections as well. I need to get a good control valve for this and find ou the best way to hook this thing up. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks all.

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jed

03-12-2004 05:35:10

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Re: I bit the big one and got a Saginaw 3 pt in reply to Jonesy, 03-10-2004 18:25:40

I have one too. Now get a set of front suitcase weights before you raise the front end.

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03-11-2004 07:02:30

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Re: I bit the big one and got a Saginaw 3 pt in reply to Jonesy, 03-10-2004 18:25:40

Good Job! Where in TX? I got my NEW Saganaw last week in San Antonio Tx, put it on my M and am locating my valve now. I posted:
What valve config for new 3pt ..[expand] - MM 06:35:59 03/09/
04
Hydraulic valve confusion [+] MM 21:39:26 03/07/04 Got some good advice. Also called IH dealer in Poteet who advised to get one spool float even though hitch can float. Float is a fourth position so you still have up & down and just get more flexability. A float will have a detent.
I am making a bracket similar to Road Warriors, which looks good, and am just wresling with simplicity of design vs what is going to be least in my way of swinging my (old) leg over the seat and feel like it's in the right place when in use.
Valve issue probably driven by budget. Northern has a Prince valve: 2 spool, one float, adjustable relief, and load checks for $154 , I found a Cross (local dealer) and a Gresen (www.surpluscenter.com) for about $215 (better valves). I also found a single used cross for $30 and comes with a homade bracket that I would probably modify anyway that would work just fine. You can tell by my rambling how anxious I am - Good Luck.

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Road Warrior

03-10-2004 21:29:34

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Re: I bit the big one and got a Saginaw 3 pt in reply to Jonesy, 03-10-2004 18:25:40

Here's a pic of my valve and mounting method. I used a piece of 2 x 4 steel, I think it's about 30" long. Drilled holes to bolt onto the factory drawbar brackets(on front side of axle housing), and had to cut a couple notches for the "ears" to fit in the 2 x 4 tubing. I welded a couple of 1/2" bolts to the top, which hold the 3" angle iron the valve is mounted on.

CNKS is right on with the plumbing directions, only I ran my return line into the bottom of the belly pump housing. Remove the drain plug and use a 1/2" street L. That way it won't burp and shoot oil out the fill tube up top.

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Road Warrior

03-10-2004 21:33:23

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Re: Re: I bit the big one and got a Saginaw 3 pt in reply to Road Warrior, 03-10-2004 21:29:34

Forgot to mention my valve doesn't have any detents or float positions. I got it at the local farm supply store for around $67. You won't need a float position with the Saginaw, as you can pin or unpin it to have downpressure when you want.

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CNKS

03-10-2004 19:03:26

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Re: I bit the big one and got a Saginaw 3 pt in reply to Jonesy, 03-10-2004 18:25:40

If you can find the factory remote valve-"Christmas tree", you will have 2-way hydraulics without having to buy a valve and fabricating a place to mount it. I have been unable to find one for mine, so it is just hooked to one of the ports in the reservoir for one way hyd. It was shipped with a vent in the upper port in the cylinders. Shipping for mine to SW KS, about 225 miles NE of Amarillo was $120. For an aftermarket valve, I believe the sequence is: Use the factory line from the reservoir to the pump. Run the pressure line from the pump to the valve. Two lines from the valve to the cylinder ports. Return line from the valve to the filler pipe on the reservoir (use a tee of some sort). The two cylinders are simply teed together. The factory control rod has to be locked in the rear position for the 3-point to work. I have not done this, so someone correct me if I am wrong.

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CNKS

03-10-2004 20:35:15

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Re: Re: I bit the big one and got a Saginaw 3 pt in reply to CNKS, 03-10-2004 19:03:26

As to the main hyd rod being locked back, I believe this is necessary only with the factory remote? With the pressure line from the pump going to the aftermarket spool valve, I think the reservoir under the tank becomes just a reservoir, and the rod has no effect -- there was a post about this not too long ago, but I don't remember it all. Someone will straighten me out.

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Andy Martin

03-11-2004 18:57:13

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Re: Re: Re: I bit the big one and got a Saginaw 3 in reply to CNKS, 03-10-2004 20:35:15

With a belly pump you have to pull the rod back to the detent (some won't hold) to get continuous pressure out of any of the ports.

Only with a SM magneto pump does the "Christmas tree" help you.

By the way, if the belly pump is working right, the rod will auto release when flow stops (cylinder bottoms out). I found this out by trial and error and it only works on a few of my tractors, but when mowing hay with an M and NH 479 Haybine you just pull it back hard to the detent and pay attention to making a sharp turn, the hydraulice will reset and you can let down and mow when you are ready.

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