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M Farmall Clutch

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farmalljim

02-12-2004 13:41:07

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M Farmall CLUTCH does not disengage to allow changing gears while running and clutch pedal is fully pushed in. Previously there was low tolerance and when gears were changed, it would grind before finally allowing to go into gear. It now will not allow you to put in gear while running.
Possible cause, type repairs needed? Trouble shooting?

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Jed

02-13-2004 05:34:32

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Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to farmalljim, 02-12-2004 13:41:07

Talk all you want about finger adjustment, but it sure sounds like the clutch is worn down. Think about what you have described, the clutch was working and now it isn't. If there is no adjustment left on the rod then the clutch is shot. Pull the pump and take a look. The chance of the fingers being out of adjustment are about 1 in 100. I believe Joe Faust in Minnesota sells a rebuilt clutch and pressure plate for about $140. I have gotten several from them the whole job takes about 2 hrs. Good Luck.

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bfarmall@msn.com

02-12-2004 16:36:03

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Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to farmalljim, 02-12-2004 13:41:07

Just finished a C that had same thing turned out to be a verry bad pilot bearing in the crankshaft.

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farmalljim

02-12-2004 16:58:23

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Re: Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to bfarmall@msn.com, 02-12-2004 16:36:03

Thanks "BFarmall". What is a Pilot Bearing and how does it work clutch? Is this involving clutch/break areas? Where is it located and how involved is its repair or replacement?

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gene b

02-13-2004 03:04:43

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Re: Re: Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to farmalljim, 02-12-2004 16:58:23

The pilot bearing in the crankshaft keeps the out=put shaft where the throw-out bearing and clutch plate mount on running true. If worn bad the shaft will noy run true therefore the clutch disc will not be lined up with the flywheel and even though the clutch pedal is pushed the disc not being lined up and running true to the flywheel will wobble enough to not release all contac with the flywheel. In the last two yrs have had two Cs that did same thing. Have you tried to start engine with clutch pressed in and trans in gear or does it drag bad enough to not let starter turn over. Pilot bearing is just a brass-like bushing in the crankshaft and can be pulled with a bushing remover or sawed with a short piece of blade. Since you dont have to split the tractor your removal would be better if you got the correct puller.

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farmalljim

02-13-2004 06:34:57

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Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to gene b, 02-13-2004 03:04:43

Thank 'gene b'! Sounds like you have good hands on experience with similar problem. Your detail explanations were great. You should be writing 'repair manuals' to help those less knowledgable. Any suggestions on good reference repair manuals or sites to download info. Also, Any suggestions on finding reasonable supply of farmall new/rebuilt parts (ie Name, location, email, website adresses? My email address is "farmalljim@Hotmail.com" if you want to contact.

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49 Cubber!

02-12-2004 15:53:04

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Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to farmalljim, 02-12-2004 13:41:07

Drop the belly pump,if you have one.On the pressure plate there are three findgers,each have a pin with a cotter pin that keeps it in place,look youll see what im talking about.Ill bet one of those pins has come out now and your other problem is related to the clutch needing to be adjusted.

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farmalljim

02-12-2004 17:16:14

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Re: Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to 49 Cubber!, 02-12-2004 15:53:04

"49 Cubber",thanks. Whats is a Findger and how do the three(3)Findgers on the pressure plate work? There is no adjustment left in the break arm/shaft to clutch housing. If pin has come out, will this cause pressure plate to move and cause my problem? How else can adjustment to clutch be made?

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49 Cubber!

02-12-2004 18:07:23

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Re: Re: Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to farmalljim, 02-12-2004 17:16:14

Slip of the fingers..... .its suppose to "fingers".When you push in the clutch the throwout bearing hits these fingers, the fingers release the pressure on the clutch disc disengaging it.It takse all three fingers to do this.IF all three were out of adjustment bad to start with,adjusting the clutch rod wouldnt do much good.you need to pull the pump,if anything else to see whats going on in there,but those fingers are adjustable.I think I have mine set about 1/4" from the throwout bearing.the pin I am refering to is on the outside edge of the finger and held on with a cotter pin.Fi this is your problem,youll spend more time pullung the pump than fixing it and adjusting it. Ihad a real close call once becuase of this same thing.I was brushhogging and saw A motorcycle laying in the feild,I tried to stop by using the clutch and brake at the same time but the tractor wouldnt slow down.TRhe front tires went up on the motorcylce anbd I just got lucky and caught it in time to swing the brushhog around to miss the motorcycle.I didnt think about it at the time,but I could have easily flipped over when the one back tire hit the motorcycle.Somewone had stolen it and dumped it in the feild.Shame too!It WAS a nice FatBoy.And I tore up the rear tire as well.

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farmalljim

02-12-2004 18:30:54

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Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to 49 Cubber!, 02-12-2004 18:07:23

Thanks 49 Cubber for your patience, I'm 56 and learning, drove my dads F30 while a boy in S.C. The M 'Fingers', yes, I'm getting a real education on some of the terms related to these powerful machine 'Irom horses' which are new to me. This is my first time to the site and love it. Would like to communicate directly via email (if agreeable) as I proceed with my M restoring projects where I spend money and contineu to replace/repair. I'm sure I may have more questions on other issues as I go along.

My email is "farmalljim@Hotmail.com". Would love to hear from you and keep you informed with progress.

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Jim

02-12-2004 15:15:34

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Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to farmalljim, 02-12-2004 13:41:07

Replacing the clutch on these old timers is not always the answer. I replace a clutch and did not improve it for the same reasons you mentioned until I reworked the clutch pedal, clutch/brake shaft and carrier inside the belly pump area. Then I got it to work. I should not have replaced the clutch.

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farmalljim

02-12-2004 16:43:34

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Re: Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to Jim, 02-12-2004 15:15:34

"Jim", thanks. Sounds like you are close to this Jims M, 1947 problem. Appreciate your advice. Tell me more!! Whats your mechanic or project experience (or just old tractor project) and repair?
I was afraid that replacing clutch, (which you did may also not really be the main problem) but a symptom. I did add a new hydrolic pump under the belly 10 years ago but no notice of problem. It has always had a grinding when you changed gears, but lived with it. Does not have any adjustment between breal linkage and housing. Guess theres no syncromesh live newer ones and I only drove it 40-50 hrs. after major overhaul and its been sitting up for 8-10 yrs. Tell me more about Clutch/Brake SHAFT and carrier(??) inside belly pump area(what and where are these and how do they work). Effort, extent, how, and work involved?

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jed

02-12-2004 14:34:23

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Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to farmalljim, 02-12-2004 13:41:07

Adjust the clutch if no clutch adjustment is available , then replace the clutch.

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farmalljim

02-12-2004 17:24:08

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Re: Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to jed, 02-12-2004 14:34:23

No adjustment is left in clutch adj. arm. What about pressure plate? Will replacing clutch take care of grinding gears?

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Mguy

02-12-2004 14:16:23

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Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to farmalljim, 02-12-2004 13:41:07

Gonna need a little more info, Bud. This machine been sitting long? Recently worked on? Tell us more about this tractor, please. Mguy.

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farmalljim

02-12-2004 16:13:53

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Re: Re: M Farmall Clutch in reply to Mguy, 02-12-2004 14:16:23

Mguy - Thanks for reply.
Yes, M 1947, has been sitting up for 8-10 years after it had been completely overhauled and ran 40-50 hours until it started smoking and parked. Had it worked on to correct this but not sure problem or resolve. Now, bringing it back to life AGAIN. Rebuilt carb., tune up, new wires etc. and cleaned starter, and its maiden run did well. Engine smoked some (I had put oil in cylinders to soak and help loosen up engine to get started) but ran better with time in all gears. Finally quite smoking after running a while and getting hotter. The next week I drove it I could not put in gear while running, major grinding with clutch in. There does not appear to be any adjustment in clutch linkage (between clutch pedal and throwout arm). Will a clutch or pressure plate replacement do it?

Concern Item#2 - Also found some oil in antifreeze when I drained main water plug on side of engine. Did compression and pressure tests via all plugs and found no escaping air to indicate blown head gasket, cracked hear or other visable cracks. Could sitting up for 8-10 years cause this? Not sure how long oil has been in engine. What else could I test to determine where oil is coming from? Plan to run and monitor-whats your take on how to proceed.

Will be home to respond more promptly. Sorry for delay as I was at work when I asked for HELP!

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