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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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H - Drilling out fender bolt holes

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Jim

12-23-2003 07:41:16




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Any suggestions before I attempt to drill out the bolt holes for the fenders on the axle? At somepoint prior to my owning the unit the bolts where snapped off about 1/8 of an inch below the axle housing - do I just drill and retap, drill and try to use an easy out - or just weld a plate to the axle to mount the fenders?
Thanks, Jim




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Wayne Swenson

12-23-2003 19:16:24




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 Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to Jim, 12-23-2003 07:41:16  
Have you tried a cutting torch??
Just heat the broken bolt and blast it out of the hole. The cast axle housing will not melt because it has so much more iron to heat up than the poor, little cap screw that broke off years ago.
Use as hot a pre-heat flame as your torch can develop and be prepared for sparks to fly back in your face when you press the oxygen lever. The tip may need cleaning when done and you need to use a thread tap to clean up the residue. Go easy so you don't break the tap in the hole.
I have also used this proceedure on cast iron car cylinder heads that had a broken alternator mounting bolt where you couldn't get a drill or much of anything else to fit in behind the radiator.
Sounds scary but works!

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Jim

12-23-2003 18:54:36




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 Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to Jim, 12-23-2003 07:41:16  
Thanks everyone for the help, going to swing by Harbor Freight for a couple of the left twist drills - yep the bolts are in there, tried prying around in there to see if was dirt - (did find what might have been some original cork shipping material in the pto shaft?) If all fails may have to go to a different plan, for my the fenders are more of a safety factor to have them on.
Wishing everyone the best, Jim

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Bill Smith

12-24-2003 12:24:53




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 Re: Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to Jim, 12-23-2003 18:54:36  
I would sure advise the welding method first. It will likely work and if not you can always do something different. Thank about it. If the bolt is seazed up enough to twist off, stands to reason that a smaller around easy out will snap just as easy. The friction of a drill bit is much less. I can't explain what the heat does when welding, but seems to loosen the bolt up as it was never seized most of the time. Well, anyway, good luck in whatever you do.

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rustyfarmall

12-23-2003 13:20:12




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 Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to Jim, 12-23-2003 07:41:16  
Several of you have mentioned welding a nut to the broken off bolt, and I agree that method works. But please go back and carefully read the question again, those bolts are broken off 1/8 of an inch down in the hole, If he is not careful, he will end up welding the hole shut, and then there is more work than before he started.



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Bill Smith

12-24-2003 12:16:00




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 Re: Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to rustyfarmall, 12-23-2003 13:20:12  
ET is correct. Not to much danger of rod sticking to caste iron (especially if using the right rod).



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ET

12-23-2003 18:26:52




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 Re: Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to rustyfarmall, 12-23-2003 13:20:12  
The axel housing is cast iron so the rod for steel is not going to stick to cast iron. I use E6011 rod and keep putting a spot of weld on the bolt untill it is built back up to the surface of the housing then I weld the nut on. I have gotten out bolts broken off 1/2" below the surface like this.



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Bill Smith

12-23-2003 11:49:03




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 Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to Jim, 12-23-2003 07:41:16  
Anytime I tried to drill or use easy outs, it turned out to be a bad deal and a night mare. Ussually ended up with an off center hole or a broken off easy out in the hole. The best luck I've had is welding as John in NE and John has said. I take a nut with the same size hole as the bolt. Set nut over twisted off bolt and weld inside of nut to the twisted off bolt. Fill the inside nut full of weld. Immediately after welding spray just the nut with a liquid to cool just the nut/bolt. Using a nut instead of a washer will allow you to use a wrench. The heat somehow does mericals. Get on it with a wrench and break it loose. Once broke loose you can ussually go back and forth to further loosen it. Should come right out. If the weld breaks and the nut comes off, just simply weld another nut on and try it again. You have nothing to loose, unlike drilling holes and so forth which could get you in trouble if it don't work. You can always resort to another method if the welding does not work.

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Michael

12-23-2003 10:57:50




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 Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to Jim, 12-23-2003 07:41:16  
Are you sure they're really broken off?

My 1948 M had 50 years worth of old mud, manure, etc. packed into the holes. Stuff was so hard I thought it was a broken bolt.

Kept spraying WD-40 and brake cleaner in there and disolved the stuff. Used an old screw driver to dig the stuff out.



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John

12-23-2003 10:02:49




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 Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to Jim, 12-23-2003 07:41:16  
The easiest way is to get a larger diameter nut, center it over the broken bolt and weld the broken bolt to the nut. Then back it out.



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Paul in Mich

12-23-2003 08:37:54




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 Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to Jim, 12-23-2003 07:41:16  
Jim, those broken off bolts aren't as hard to remove as one may think. Although this may not work in all cases, here's what I did. I laid out a 1/2 inch template with the bolt hole pattern. Two holes were drilled out to 1/2 inch and the other s to 1/4 inch. I then bolted the template to the 2 holes that were , and drilled 1/4 inch pilot holes in the 2 bolts that were broken off. I then sprayed "Blaster" into the holes and let them set over night. I tried an easy out the next day, but none came free. I opened the holes to 11/32 (.3437) and used a larger extractor and they came out without a hitch. Lucky for me, one side was mirror to the other side so I just flipped the template and used it for both sides. I then chased the threads with a bottom tap to clean out all the crud and installed new fender bolts using anti seize. I'm sure there are other ways, but this way worked well for me, and I didnt touch the existing threads with the drill bit.

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John in NE

12-23-2003 08:07:01




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 Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to Jim, 12-23-2003 07:41:16  
I've had alot of luck by welding a larger washer to the broken bolts. Get a larger washer, about 5/8 or 3/4 in.,center it over the bolt and fill the hole and washer with weld. Use a wire welder or 6013 rod as it won't bond with the cast iron axle. Twist it back and forth with vice grips or channel lock pliers and it should turn out. It may take several tries on each bolt, so have plenty of washers.We used this method at a welding shop where I worked years ago. John

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rustyfarmall

12-23-2003 08:00:51




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 Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to Jim, 12-23-2003 07:41:16  
Drilling out broken bolts is sometimes easy and sometimes very tricky. I would suggest that you find a couple of left handed drill bits, you will want a small diameter bit for starting the hole, and a larger bit for finishing the job. The reason for a left-handed bit is that, as you are drilling, the counter-clockwise motion will have a tendency to loosen the bolt, and if you are lucky, the broken bolt might just screw itself out of the hole. Try your auto parts stores for the drill bits, or McMaster-Carr. I think they have a website.

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Peabody

12-23-2003 08:48:05




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 Re: Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to rustyfarmall, 12-23-2003 08:00:51  
I bought a set of 4 left-handed bits yesteday at Harbor Freight. $4.99.



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rustyfarmall

12-23-2003 09:01:10




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 Re: Re: Re: H - Drilling out fender bolt holes in reply to Peabody, 12-23-2003 08:48:05  
Thanks for the info, I will check it out.



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