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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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H cold valve adjustment

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riverbend

12-01-2003 15:46:26




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What do you think is a good number for the initial valve adjustment for an H ? Do you do anything special to break in a motor ? How soon do you make the first oil change ?

thanks

Greg




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Jonathan Mirgon

12-02-2003 04:05:48




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 Re: H cold valve adjustment in reply to riverbend, 12-01-2003 15:46:26  
I prefer to change the oil after 2 or three hours on these old tractors, If your headgasket is leaking even a small amount, You wont be able to see it in the oil. If there is a leak all of the antifreeze/water will settle to the bottom of the oil pan , and when opening the petcock on the oil pan you wont be able to see the water.Antifreeze can damage the new bearings on the bottom end of the engine. More than likely your headgasket is fine. But I think it is a ggod precaution to run it for an hour or two. Shut it off and let it sit overnight and then drain the oil and check for water. If it is leaking when you remove the drain plug the water will come out first.

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GG

12-01-2003 18:36:11




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 Re: H cold valve adjustment in reply to riverbend, 12-01-2003 15:46:26  
I agree with everything that FarmallH42 stated. I might add that you should watch the temperature and don't let it get HOT!!



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riverbend

12-01-2003 19:00:22




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 Re: Re: H cold valve adjustment in reply to GG, 12-01-2003 18:36:11  
I should move a replacement water temperature gauge up on my priority list. Mine only moves when it is getting ready to boil over.

What makes them hot ? Everything being too tight ?

Greg



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FarmallH42

12-01-2003 17:27:56




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 Re: H cold valve adjustment in reply to riverbend, 12-01-2003 15:46:26  
For cold adjustment I set them to .001" more than spec for hot adjustment. Then warmed up good, cooled down, warmed up again, cooled - then retorqued head.

As for break in - I ran it easy the first 5 hours, light load. Heavy load the next 5 hours. Then used it normally and changed oil at 50 hours. Changed oil again at 87 hours (it had been a year since last oil change). Most mechanics I have talked to recommend to break in an engine just like you are going to use it. Of course go easy the first few hours to be sure things get their initial "seat."

Owner's manual says to change after first 100 hours - I think that is a tad too long. I judge by what the oil looks like - not the actual hours. Short run times in cold weather make for dirty oil faster.

A couple more things: If you put in a new cam and lifters, you need to run at around 1/2 throttle for a half hour to break those in. I cranked my engine without spark plugs in until I got oil pressure before initial start up just to be sure everything was getting oil.

Good luck!

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riverbend

12-01-2003 18:48:13




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 Re: Re: H cold valve adjustment in reply to FarmallH42, 12-01-2003 17:27:56  
Thanks for the tip about the cam and lifters, they were just reground/refaced.

100 hours does seem kind of long for an engine with just a bypass filter. I was thinking something more like 2 hours.


Greg



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FarmallH42

12-01-2003 19:37:47




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 Re: Re: Re: H cold valve adjustment in reply to riverbend, 12-01-2003 18:48:13  
It all depends on how the engine was put together. I made sure that everything was nuclear clean when I put my engine together. I cleaned and re-cleaned parts. I also kept an eye on the oil about every 5 hours for the first 25 hours or so - it stayed really clean up until about 45 hours so I didn't change it until 50 - just because we were using it that day and didn't have the time.

If the oil looks dirty after 2 hours, by all means change it! And if it is dirty again in 5 hours change again.

I should also mention, do not use synthetic oil until it is broken in. Synthetic oil will not allow proper break in. I switched to synthetic when I changed at 87 hours - I use Mobil Delvac 5w-40...

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riverbend

12-02-2003 06:55:21




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: H cold valve adjustment in reply to FarmallH42, 12-01-2003 19:37:47  
I kept things pretty clean, but I don't have great workspaces. It is not outside, but pretty close. The bearings and journals were spotless everytime they went together.

I am not so worried about a bit of dust or stray gasket crumb as much as I think about the new rings scrubbing up against the new sleeves. Since not all the oil goes through the filter everytime it circulates, some of that metal is going to find it's way to the bearings.

When we put new rings in my Dad's 16 hp Briggs, and ran it for ten minutes, the oil came out looking like glitter. It did quit smoking though.

The motor on the H is a lot heavier and expensive to rebuild, so I would like to keep it together for as long as possible.

Greg

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