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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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SMTA Value?

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JP

10-06-2003 18:28:40




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I have been looking for an SMTA for a while. I have time but not a lot of money. I am looking for one to work on myself. I am a pretty skilled mechanic. I found an SMTA, but I am not exactly sure what it is worth. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Farmall SMTA-can't read serial number
Running-all gears, engine-transmission-differential-no bad noise
No power steering,steering has 3/8 turn wobble
No brakes
Clutch decent(wobbles lots left and right)
Torque good but won't lock back
PTO will not lock off(shield Missing)
Sheetmetal-excellent(slight damage around muffler-cross piece on bottom of grill missing, gas tank perfect)
Older rebuild-paint peeling, original paint underneath
Patch on bottom of differential(no leaks)
Needs new throttle
Needs 2 new front tires Rear 30%L&R
Needs New radiator
Home made fenders(Bolted on, not welded)
Light bar removed but supposedly in perfect condition.
Needs new lights
12 volt kit done pathetically(Wires exposed)
Mess of hydraulic lines
Rims-80% Rear tires full of air (Front flat and filled with water)wheel weights
Ran first try after 8 years
New Battery
Been sitting under cover
From Western Pennsylvania(I am from there also, able to drive it home if necessary)

This is the best description I can give without a picture, thank you.

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Charle V aka F20II

10-07-2003 03:13:23




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 Re: SMTA Value? in reply to JP, 10-06-2003 18:28:40  
Well Jp since I can't send you an email because it is blocked here is what I think

Farmall SMTA-can't read serial number

Serial number can be found on engine, casting numbers will tell you month, day, year on most all parts. They are cast into each part an they look like two screws on each side with numbers an then leters with dots inbetween. Running-all gears, engine-transmission-differential-no bad noise

This is a good thing but you might want to check out how thick gear oil is an peek at it.

No power steering,steering has 3/8 turn wobble
Alot of the narrow fronts have wobble in them, this can be fixed with bearing kits either after market or from Case/IH

No brakes

Brakes can be bought after market or Case/IH, these are disk brakes an sort of pricy

Clutch decent

Ok on clutch but since you are going to need other parts I might think about replacing it along with seals in trans

Torque good but won't lock back
PTO will not lock off(shield Missing)

Sounds like locks are worn an can be made or found at a bone yard an there is after maket PTO shields

Sheetmetal-excellent(slight damage around muffler-cross piece on bottom of grill missing, gas tank perfect)

sheet metal can always be welded on or brazed

Older rebuild-paint peeling, original paint underneath

You can still get Case IH 2150 by the gallon from dealer along with primer

Patch on bottom of differential(no leaks)

Well right now since the guy may have known you were coming you don't see any leaks but down the road there may be, JB weld can fix that or it can be drilled an pinned.

Needs new throttle

Throttles are all over the place, both new after market or bone yards

Needs 2 new front tires Rear 30%L&R

Front tires run about $45 a peace, rims run about the same

Needs New radiator

Look at list of Bone yard over at A.T.I.S, they are pricy but can be found or you may want to take it to local dealer an have it recored, both very pricy

Home made fenders(Bolted on, not welded)

Fenders run from $150 a pair after market to $250 for good ones from bone yards

Light bar removed but supposedly in perfect condition.

Light bars can be found at bone yard but beware of all the rust inside the bar, they look good out side but all rusted up inside the bar :o)

Needs new lights
12 volt kit done pathetically(Wires exposed)

You can buy new wiring harness's from after market venders replacing old one but they are in some case's a little high. Case/IH also sells them

Mess of hydraulic lines

Good hydraulic lines are not cheap, I just paid $75 for two. Local venders can help you if they need replaced

Rims-80% Rear tires full of air (Front flat and filled with water)wheel weights

How ggod are tire's, new tires for an M can run as much as $375 per tire not counting tubes

Ran first try after 8 years

Sitting for eight years I'd change fuel filters get some additive, replace all the water hose's an belts along with an oil change for sure

New Battery

Been sitting under cover

From Western Pennsylvania(I am from there also, able to drive it home if necessary)

Well you can save some bucks on hauling for sure.

All in all it looks like to me that you are going to put in abour $2000 or maybe a little more thats if you paint it yourself, $4000 or more if you have someone paint it. Working on it when ever you can you may have six months or more of work to make it look new. SMTA are very nice tractors but don't let the guy price you out of the ball park, tires alone can cost you close to $1000 if you buy all new. Sand blasting the rear an front rims will cost you $100 or more. What I'd do is call the local Cae/IH dealer or shop around on the internet for all the price's an that will help you come up with what should be a fair offer. I have saw running SMTA go for hig price's when in good shape an about $1200 in bad shape an lower if stuck. But all in all it's what you think it's worth an how bad do you want it that makes up the price. Most of my tractors come from fence rows an have been stuck for many years, I average $3000/$4000 in restoring them but never get close to that when selling one :o) hope this helps, email me if you need help finding parts or price's

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Charlie V aka F20II

10-07-2003 02:33:32




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 Re: SMTA Value? in reply to JP, 10-06-2003 18:28:40  
JP here I'll send you an email with what I think it will cost you an then you can make an offer, but this tractor sounds like alot of work an not worth alot except it's a SMTA



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JP

10-07-2003 15:12:44




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 Re: Re: SMTA Value? in reply to Charlie V aka F20II, 10-07-2003 02:33:32  
Thank you very much for the input. I will have to think it over a little more.



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