Super C motor oil

Personally, I'd go with the lighter oil. If you have excessive consumption problems, move to a thicker viscosity - one range at a time.

Do you recall the oil ad that states that 80% of your engine wear happens when the engine is cold? This ad is true.. and it is mostly due to oil circulation. I'd even go one better, I would prefer to use 5W-30 synthetic.

Oh, I will vote for using straight weight oil in my oil bath air cleaner.

I've used synthetics since ~1975 for some engines. On race engines, they run 20 to 30 degrees cooler on an oil temp gauge, and they do dyno slightly better. The amazing part is when you tear down an racing engine that's used synthetics from the get go and see the bearings -- they look like you just installed them.

I use synthetics in 4 of my 5 tractors. The fifth one is the rub, I need to do a rebuild on it, and it would just burn off that nice expensive synthetic oil. So in the meantime, I'm using straight 30W and now 40W as it's gotten warm. You're absolutely right about cold starts -- but there is a trick known to lots of guys who went to flight school 30 or more years ago on piston engines. Leave the switch off - pull through the engine -- manually or with the starter, until oil pressure builds. Then go switch on. That mostly eliminates any cold start problem. If I use this engine when it's cold; then I'd use a 10w-40. 'Til then I get to turn it through then yell clear when I switch on.

Guys who went to flight school less than 30 years ago quickly went into turbines and synthetics. There's nothing better for standing up to cold starts and also outrageous temps and revs. Next time this discussion comes up - maybe we should ask if someone would use 30W in an engine that turns >60,000 RPM at 20 below zero. If the answer is no - somebody has learned to appreciate synthetics.

I've used synthetics since ~1975 for some engines. On race engines, they run 20 to 30 degrees cooler on an oil temp gauge, and they do dyno slightly better. The amazing part is when you tear down an racing engine that's used synthetics from the get go and see the bearings -- they look like you just installed them.

I use synthetics in 4 of my 5 tractors. The fifth one is the rub, I need to do a rebuild on it, and it would just burn off that nice expensive synthetic oil. So in the meantime, I'm using straight 30W and now 40W as it's gotten warm. You're absolutely right about cold starts -- but there is a trick known to lots of guys who went to flight school 30 or more years ago on piston engines. Leave the switch off - pull through the engine -- manually or with the starter, until oil pressure builds. Then go switch on. That mostly eliminates any cold start problem. If I use this engine when it's cold; then I'd use a 10w-40. 'Til then I get to turn it through then yell clear when I switch on.

Guys who went to flight school less than 30 years ago quickly went into turbines and synthetics. There's nothing better for standing up to cold starts and also outrageous temps and revs. Next time this discussion comes up - maybe we should ask if someone would use 30W in an engine that turns >60,000 RPM at 20 below zero. If the answer is no - somebody has learned to appreciate synthetics.

As to no/high detergent, once things were cleaned up I would definately use the detergent oil.

Al