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27 Farmall Regular

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Thomas E. Farro

05-27-2002 12:12:39




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Over the weekend I helped an old friend try to "unfreeze" a 27 Regular. I tried everything I could think of with our limit time. I finally got all 3 of the 4 piston pushed away from the crank, I cannot belive 1 could hold against the torque we are putting on it. Could the flywheel be froze to something or the main bearings froze with that kind of hold? We even put a jack under the crank to see if we could move it 1/32 or so. Nothing, it jacks up the tractor. All cylinders have been soaking M Mystery oil for days. It leaks out around all pistons. I'm stumped. Any ideas?....thanks..... ..tom

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Ken Williams

05-27-2002 14:18:19




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 Re: 27 Farmall Regular in reply to Thomas E. Farrow, 05-27-2002 12:12:39  
Thomas, Loop a heavy chain from one frame rail to the other side several times,underneath the tractor, and then put your hydraulic jack on that, between the chain and the connecting rod on the stuck piston. Slowly apply pressure, Maybe a little at a time over a few days, it depends on what's happening while your doing this. If things begin to move right away, then you're on your way. I wish you success.

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Dan in Ore

05-27-2002 12:56:39




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 Re: 27 Farmall Regular in reply to Thomas E. Farrow, 05-27-2002 12:12:39  
I used a piece of brass tubing and a steel plate that went over the head studs to get the pistons moving in my F-12. Just take the nuts down evenly so that the pressure is equal on all sides. I used the brass because I had it, but steel should work equally as well because you are not hammering with it.

Good luck.



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Mr. J

05-27-2002 12:38:50




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 Re: 27 Farmall Regular in reply to Thomas E. Farrow, 05-27-2002 12:12:39  
Tom,

The crankshaft should be connected with ball bearings at both ends, you could remove the ball bearing from both ends and remove the crank?? Just a possibility. Be careful not to hurt those sleeves if they are salvageable, sleeves are hard to find and expensive. Remember, the pistons on a regular can be removed from the bottom, so you might be able to get a chunk of wood and a sledge on the top of the piston and try to move them down for awhile, then back up....anything to get more lubricant moved down into the rust. But, very good luck and be careful with those "vital" engine parts.

Jared Jeffries

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howard

05-27-2002 16:18:47




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 Re: Re: 27 Farmall Regular in reply to Mr. J, 05-27-2002 12:38:50  
i use a piece of 7/8 hex shaft. i call it my majic wand. just beat around the outside edge of the piston. two - four pound hammer. when the penetrating oil sprays back in you face the piston is unstuck. be careful sometimes the skirts break off from the vibration.



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George Mikesell

12-23-2004 20:26:48




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 Re: Re: Re: 27 Farmall Regular in reply to howard, 05-27-2002 16:18:47  
No one be sure that mice or what ever has not made a nest in flywheel housing, both front and back of flywheel, then proceed to pistons. If you are sure that is stuck piston only, not flywheel, I soak pistons(as long as six months) then use oak log and mall to bounce the pistons, along with heat. Use rose-bud on torch to heat cylinder walls and top of piston, have always been successful. once piston moves like a sixteenth of inch you are on the way. Don't try to get piston to travel all way up and down cylinder at once. Move back and forth then apply penetrating liquid and move again, if possible blow out junk with air hose. There will be lot of rust and carbon which you need to clean out as piston goes further. Once you have gotten piston to move distance of stroke it is ok to lubricate and move as you wish. Keep in mind that this is not a two hour process. I have worked weeks at time to free up engines, but it does work and I have not broken any sleeves or pistons yet.

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