Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
:

Anybody actually done it? Super C rear axle seal?

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
leon

06-15-2007 03:09:49




Report to Moderator

Has any body here ever attempted to replace the inner rear axle seal on a Super C without taking the axle out? Can it be done?




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Ed342

07-13-2007 22:17:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: Anybody actually done it? Super C rear axle seal? in reply to leon, 06-15-2007 03:09:49  
If you haven't started or completed your axle replacement yet I'm just off mine (almost) and happy to share some lessons. First, I did get a manual and it was interesting but basically not worth much for this job. In fact, all of the real problems were not covered at all. Don't bother going in through the pto. Go in through the top deck. Pay particular attention to the bolt threads and lengths; mark them and be prepared to replace a few and probably drill out a few. Remove all the weight you can from the deck. The axle change is relatively easy. The axle shaft runs through the housing, into the gear box body, through the bull gear and is kept in by a small disc with 2 bolts. If your shaft is broken off its easier. Take out the bull gear, remove the 2-bolt disk, reinstall the bull gear - probably using make shift shims to hold it in place - check the bg carefully for damage, especially the spline, and replace if necessary or questionable. Bolt everything back like you took it off. Decide if you want a new axle housing seal or silicone. For the deck itself the silicone should work fine and its a lot easier. If you take out the BG you will have to remove the pto shaft and there is also an oil tube that services the pto from the front of the case. One or both come out and replace easily. But pay special attention to how you r & r them. Pay particular attention to the pto on/off (outside) handle. Try to have either a chainfall or 2 other guys helpling you on the reinstallation. We had 2 problems we won't have again. On beginning the job we put the trans in neutral thinking we would (and had) reinstalled the deck, and shifting forks, exactly as they came off. Turns out somewhere during the process we and moved the sliding gears and the forks didn't fall correctly into their channels. To correct this we had to remove the deck again and take some time making sure the forks fell properly into the proper gear channels. This took a good hour and the manual was useless here. But its simple mechanics and we got it. This is where the chainfall or the extra guy made a difference. First time around there were only 2 of us and no chainfall and with the weight and 'reach over angles' and not lifting the control assembly and guage box sufficiently high and out of the way, we raised the deck at an angle. Our first deck reinstall was at the same angle and reach over problem. Big Mistake! Those 2 gears you'll see that determine the drive gear you're in have to be correctly matched with 2 forks below the shift lever. The forks have to fall into a channel each. The gears with their attached channels slide very easily. Make sure the shifter is in neutral; measure the distance between the 2 forks. Make sure the channels are the exact same distance apart and drop the deck w/forks straight down into the 2 channels. You'll understand all this when you get the case open. Have a flashlight handy to monitor this when the deck with forks is being lowered. There are 2 line up studs in the casing for the deck to lower onto. But watch those forks carefully. Our 2nd big problem is with the pto/side pulley assembly activator. With all else now working fine we now have to remove these units and figure out why they won't shut off. A pain but, hopefully, it will be only an hour or so job. This is a good time to replace your gear lube - 19.5 to 20 quarts of 90 weight. I'd say it wouldn't hurt to put the first half quart directly into the pto although that shouldn't be a necessity - the splash tube should get the oil up there quick enough; you'll just feel better. Again, silicone should work fine for this gasket. Again, pay special attention to the threads and lengths of all the bolts. This is also a good time to replace your 2 large fill plugs. Actually the one on the deck just left of the shifter is listed as the fill plug and the one on the rear above the pto is listed as an inspection plug but they're the same. They get rounded and are cheap and easy to replace to save future problems. Good luck. Hope some of this helps. Also - when you remove the guage box, check the wiring and connections in there. This is a good time to spot damage and potential problems and also to replace guages and switches in there if need be.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Ed342

06-15-2007 08:47:37




Report to Moderator
 Re: Anybody actually done it? Super C rear axle seal? in reply to leon, 06-15-2007 03:09:49  
Others with better experience may advise you differently and please defer to them. However I am in the process of changing out a right axle on a '53 Super C now and happy to share on that and hope it helps you with yours.

So far we've removed the wheel, wheel weights and having some trouble getting the top (deck) off the gear box. This is a lot easier with 2 guys because of the weight but 1 guy can do it. A couple bolt heads broke off which can be replaced ok. One, left front corner is in a bad spot for tapping out and will add some time to the job. This same bolt is holding the deck and if it doesn't tap out I will have to fully remove the controls 'tree' which is another hours work but only a small pain.

We were able to raise the deck up from the rear and I can see into the box. The big gear on the right is loose and just laying cocked in there. So my point is you may be able to come in through the pto but you may discover you need to get fully into the rear end box to examine and/or make other adjustments or replacements. So you might want to just take the bit in your teeth and go in from the top. By the way, instead of using standard WD-40 I took a recommendation from a kid working at a Home Depot and am using a spray can of PB Blaster. It's a world better than anything else I've seen, including WD by far. On an otherwise rust free tractor that has had a lot of obvious good care over the years I was surprised to find that the bolts that broke off had rusted 50% through close under their heads in the deck plate itself. One of the bigger problems I've found is can't seem to locate a diagram of where all the gears should be and what torques, adjustments, alignments, etc. should be. I've called the companies that sell the full manuals and so far, to my surprise, haven't found one that includes this in their manuals. Once I get fully into the box I'm going to want to make sure I get everything back together correctly and replace any and all parts that might need it. This is obviously not a job I'm wanting to do twice. Hope any of this helps. Ed342 - Northville, MI

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Randy in NE

06-15-2007 05:02:38




Report to Moderator
 Re: Anybody actually done it? Super C rear axle seal? in reply to leon, 06-15-2007 03:09:49  
No and No. The seal slides off the inside end of the axle. You have to take to fine threaded bolts out that hold the retaining plate to the bull gear. You can get to this by removing the pto and go in through the rear of the rearend. The hole isn't very big so if you have stout arms it might be a challenge. Those two bolts on the bull gear are fine threaded and have at least an inch to screw out. One trick is to leave the back tire on the axle, jack up that side, put a wrench on the bolt and spin the tire. My bolts were two hard to turn by fingers and two easy for the rachet so that trick worked great. Keep in mind that this will make the axle assembly pretty heavy. I used a cherry picker to lift the wheel and axle so it wasn't too bad. Also keep in mind that removing the tire and axle changes the center of gravity and we don't want to have this thing tipping over. Safety!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy