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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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'50 M Transmission main shaftand seal removal Adv

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Sagebrusher

06-12-2007 20:04:34




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Hello, This time it is bad seals and loose bearings on the old girl"s transmission main (input) shaft and Lift-all drive shaft where they emerge from the front of the transmission. The lift all drive shaft I think I have a handle on. The transmission side drive coupling even unscrewed in a decent manner and came right off. I ran a search back to 2001 but could not find definitive advice on removing the main shaft drive coupling. We disconnected the joint between the clutch shaft(?) and the transmision input shaft, loosened the drive shaft coupling and pulled it forward untill it hit the clutch shaft coupling. The half moon key came out but no luck on getting the coupling off the shaft. No amount of back and forth juggling would give us enough clearance to remove the coupling. We pulled the "Transmission Driving Shaft bearing cage" (bearing and seal flange assembly to me) but even that would not allow removal of the stub shaft and the coupling as a unit. Does the tractor have to be split to remove the driving shaft coupling on the transmission side? Will removing the clutch linkage allow enough clearance to pull the coupling off? Thank you in advance. I have learned a lot from following your seasoned advice and experience. Best Regards Don

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Southern Ray

06-13-2007 13:59:19




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 Re: '50 M Transmission main shaftand seal removal Adv in reply to Sagebrusher, 06-12-2007 20:04:34  
The clutch plate must first be slid out of the flywheel inset. Slide it out on the shaft splines. After you have compressed the springs and unbolted the pressure plate use a piece of wire or anything to grab the clutch plate and slide it out of the inset. If you have the shaft unbolted everything should fall down on your belly.



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Sagebrusher

06-14-2007 08:15:28




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 Re: '50 M Transmission main shaftand seal removal Adv in reply to Southern Ray, 06-13-2007 13:59:19  
Southern Ray, Just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to share your experience. Had to water yesterday so didn't have much time to tinker with the project. I had just about decided to re-assemble the main shaft and just replace the parts on the countershaft. Thanks to you I may just get both of 'em done. Found some more in the archives about M clutches. Had been lucky-Haven't had to work on a clutch for almost 40 years. . . Again, Thank you, Appreciate your help, Don

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Sagebrusher

06-13-2007 07:11:10




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 Re: '50 M Transmission main shaftand seal removal in reply to Sagebrusher, 06-12-2007 20:04:34  
Gentlemen, Thank you for the replies and encouragement. I really appreciate your time. I'll head down to the shop in a bit and see if I can remove some more pieces and see if the clutch shaft will come out. Last night I just couldn't see any way to gain the necesssary clearance to remove either shaft coupling or the clutch shaft. Wiliam, I can see how that u joint looking assmebly ("clutch joint ring" according to the parts illustartion) could be tricky. We center punched ref marks before we took it out but if anything can be confused, I can do it.

So much for a simple afternoon project to replace one oil seal. . . The parts list continues to grow. Thank you again, Best Regards Don

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Jeff McBride

06-13-2007 06:26:41




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 Re: '50 M Transmission main shaftand seal removal in reply to Sagebrusher, 06-12-2007 20:04:34  
Sounds like you may be able to do it without a split. Keep at it. I just changed all the gears in a 53 model and had to split it. The coupler on the mainshaft would not move. It didnt have a belly pump so I was lucky there. If you have the coupler moving on the shaft you should be able to get it.



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williamf

06-13-2007 03:52:20




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 Re: '50 M Transmission main shaftand seal removal in reply to Sagebrusher, 06-12-2007 20:04:34  
No, you don't need to split the tractor. If you remove the clutch shaft you will be able to get the coupling off. By the way, that sort of universal joint looking coupling that you already have off - the one with the four tapered bolts and the rubber parts in between? There's only one right way to put it back together and it's possible to force it back the wrong way. You can imagine how I'd know that.
Good luck, Wm

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