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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Parts Cleaning..or preparation for priming...big p

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Tom Windsor

05-13-2007 19:28:50




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In a note in an earlier message, "Big Fred" mentioned that he used OSPHO brand Phosporic Acid treatment on newly cleaned metal to stop rust in its tracks.

On reading some about Ospho, their advertisment says "When applied to rusted surfaces, it resists/retards rust in a chemical change on drying to a tough, hard surface ready for priming. The advertisement says that Ospho is a "balanced formula of Phosporic, Dichcromatic, wetting agents and Extenders.."

So, now I am finally getting to the question, for larger pieces, eg, the bell housing, transmission, and rear-end will the application of Ospho convert the rust in such a way as to take all the hard work out of surface preparation???

Does any one have experience here?

TW

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GA Dave.

05-14-2007 19:27:33




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 Re: Parts Cleaning..or preparation for priming...b in reply to Tom Windsor, 05-13-2007 19:28:50  
I,m sortta like Mike CA. I take a few notes here and there. My understanding of the older factory paint jobs is they were not primered. Did they use some kind of metal prep? David.



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GordoSD

05-14-2007 08:23:31




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 Re: Parts Cleaning..or preparation for priming...b in reply to Tom Windsor, 05-13-2007 19:28:50  
I use a product sold by most body shop supply places. 'Metal-Prep' Dilute with water. Now expensive. Check your application printout for the epoxy primer you are using. Many of them require a topcoat of regular primer. The epoxy primer is tough stuff and not really sandable. So for all the tin, I just lightly hand sand the epoxy to knock the overspray down, and then apply 2-4 coats primer surfacer for block sanding. May have to repeat for areas that had hammer/dolly work and or body filler.

Gordo

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CNKS

05-14-2007 20:09:09




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 Re: Parts Cleaning..or preparation for priming...b in reply to GordoSD, 05-14-2007 08:23:31  
You do not need to and are not supposed to sand epoxy (I have tried it without success.) If you use surfacer over it, any defects in the epoxy will be covered with the surfacer. Etch primers require an additional primer, epoxy doesn't. Thus on surfaces that don't have to be absolutely smooth, you just topcoat over the epoxy. Epoxy adheres better to the metal than any other primer. I have had to remove the stuff from a few parts, using a wire brush on a bench grinder, the topcoat comes off easily, the epoxy comes off but it takes longer.

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HENRY E NC

05-14-2007 07:54:40




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 Re: Parts Cleaning..or preparation for priming...b in reply to Tom Windsor, 05-13-2007 19:28:50  
I used ospho on my M and it did a good job. Costs aboout 22 a gal at paint stoe. Whole tractor used about 1/2 thatAlso used it on sheet metal after sandblasting to prevent rerusting . Your electrolisys cleans the pits and all so probly not needed there bu the cast did real well.



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Jossette

05-13-2007 19:55:59




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 Re: Parts Cleaning..or preparation for priming...b in reply to Tom Windsor, 05-13-2007 19:28:50  
Sandblaster works.. They will even prime it for ya too..



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CNKS

05-13-2007 19:42:44




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 Re: Parts Cleaning..or preparation for priming...b in reply to Tom Windsor, 05-13-2007 19:28:50  
Be careful with phosphoric acid on cast. Cast is porus and cannot be completely removed from the pores. There is a possibility of it reacting with the paint long after you are done. Remove the rust manually, keep it inside. At the most for rust protection on bare metal prior to priming use a product such as Picklex 20 ($$$) or Must For Rust ($), MFR is at Home Depot, Picklex 20 from www.autobodystore.com. I have not had trouble with those two, but no longer use them on cast. The tractor I'm working on now sat with bare metal for almost a year without rust, this is a dry climate. Unless you want to risk sandblasting, there simply is no easy way to do the chassis, and do it right.

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JayWalt

05-13-2007 19:36:21




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 Re: Parts Cleaning..or preparation for priming...b in reply to Tom Windsor, 05-13-2007 19:28:50  
tom, I looked into a simalar product called picklex. It is insanely expensive. One 16oz spray bottle is like $37. They say it goes a long way, but what the heck ever.

I would be sure to get any loose rust off. Paint isnt going to stay in place if the surface its on becomes loose (IE rust scale). As for the surface rust, I dunno.

I used a mixture of hydrochloric acid (common name muriatic acid), sulfuric acid (common name liquid fire, drain opener) before I painted my mower deck. It took the rust right off, pretty amazed. It is caustic and precautions need to be taken into account.

How much is this ospho (sp)stuff

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Tom Windsor

05-13-2007 20:02:42




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 Re: Parts Cleaning..or preparation for priming...b in reply to JayWalt, 05-13-2007 19:36:21  
On the web site it says $119.00 for 4 gallons.



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Keith-OR

05-13-2007 21:11:15




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 Re: Parts Cleaning..or preparation for priming...b in reply to Tom Windsor, 05-13-2007 20:02:42  
I got mine from Lowles and Ace Hardware, seems like it was less than $8.00 for a quart. But not sure been while since I've had to buy any.

You can buy it at most auto paint stores, but price will be more than double. Metel prep

I use a spray bottle to apply it to surfaces.

Keith & Shawn



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